Posts by imsodin
The effect that might make a compass not work in two different regions of the world is called (magnetic) declination. This is due to geometry (geographical and magnetic north are not the same) and ...
Thunderstorms due to diurnal variations from the previous day that still last as well as incoming cold fronts could be the cause. The former wouldn't be a big threat, as they would abate, the latte...
I'll go for a frame challenge in my answer: If you don't have any condition (that's being treated by a professional) that requires you to wear any kind of knee protection, the best protection for ...
Even though you say cost is not a primary factor, I still think it's good to be aware of this point when buying your first climbing shoes when mainly used in gyms (I wasn't aware at the time :) ): ...
In case of the double bowline it gets undone more easily than with a small eye, as it can move more. For the figure of eight the only factor I can think of is the same as with a too long loose end...
Apart from the reasons already stated, namely getting used to doing it that way as it will help you on smaller footholds, there's also maneuverability: If you step with the entire foot, it is reall...
You most definitely do not need specialized socks. If your socks suit you when hiking, chances are good they will for skiing as well. And as you said merino should also be good for warmth. As for ...
Some common mistakes, definitely nothing close to exhaustive, so feel free to edit (I'll make it a community wiki if appropriate). If the point is about what you should do, the mistake is not doing...
The concept of wind chill does not apply in this situation. Wind chill talks about perceived temperature due to additional heat loss due to convection. Meaning without wind, the "heated" air will s...
Little excursion up front: If you have problems with joints or back when jumping down, do not ignore that. Either you already have a significant problem with those areas, in which case you should c...
TLDR: This is a very common setup here and intuitively I always thought it was 4:1. So I needed to check more rigorously and the result is: Petzl made their homework, it is 7:1. Let me try to expla...
Yes, you absolutely should rescue the climber when the situation allows. The reason that matters most is suspension trauma: Prolonged motionless hanging in a harness can lead to loss of consciousn...
Disclaimer: I don't use whippets and have never even hold one in my own hands. From the build of a whippet and a question about whippets on AAI (provided by Ben Crowell) it has a very narrow use c...
I cannot tell you whether it is normal for your level of use, but it is perfectly normal to happen at some time. What you describe sounds like common clotting of the feathers due to the influence ...
TL;DR Vertical oriented V-threads (A-threads) are significantly stronger than horizontally aligned V-threads. The following numbers should not be taken at face value: Different test configurations...
I don't know the route itself, but according to what I read there are two non-technical routes, one from the "Prielschutzhaus" and another from "Welse Huette". The first one includes one steep sect...
This answer is based on the meaning of "Petri Heil", I have hardly any first hand knowledge of the use of this phrase. For starters it is certainly restricted to countries where the majority relig...
ShemSeger's answer already contains good information and a great self-made illustration. So please read it, I will merely expand on it. Three man parties With single and twin ropes, you need to b...
There are three types of ropes according to the UIAA/EN norm for climbing ropes: Single, half and twin. While the distinction between single ropes and the other two is rather obvious (one strand ve...
As already stated several times: If you know what you need to do on a glacier, you know what material to take. The other way round does not work: Just having the necessary gear will not insure prop...
The tent just makes your intent obvious: You planned to sleep there from the beginning. And this is what the authorities want to prevent: Camping in the wild. On the other hand many legislations al...
No, if you use an adjustable daisy chain you do not need a fifi hook. Then it is as easy as attaching the extended chain to your placement and adjusting it to the desired length. As adjustable days...
This question is extremely subjective, so anyone with experience will (and should) come up with his one personal way. What I will describe is therefore just an idea of when and why to use shoes wit...
I assume you are only looking for options by going from belay to belay (as opposed to continuous securing like going on taught rope). Method using half-ropes: You tie in on both ropes, your partn...
In ShemSegers answer fixed lines for ascending are properly addressed, there is nothing to add for me. As an alpine based mountaineer I come across lots of fixed lines whose primary purpose is secu...
