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Posts by imsodin‭

197 posts
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Q&A Do mountaineers use dynamic climbing when traversing rock/ice?

The problem will be that both the terms/activities "dynamic climbing" and "mountaineering" are quite broad. Strictly speaking the answer is yes: You sometimes use dynamic climbing in mountaineering...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How unsafe is this belay technique really?

As knitti already answered, this is the standard method taught in Germany and Switzerland (and possibly others). To keep naming clear, I am going to refer to PBUS and european method. Here we have ...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do you tie in to the centre of a rope?

This is also needed when having more than two people on a rope on a glacier. If you attach a climber in the middle of the rope, you should also add an "extension" when tying in, but that doesn't se...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Do some parts of the world really have 12 hours of daylight each day of the entire year?

If you neglect the influence of the terrain/buildings, the atmosphere and the height above sea level, both the time with and without sunlight is very close to 12 hours on the equator (other minor d...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can I fall out of my sit harness?

No you cannot - as long as you fit it correctly. One test you have to do when adjusting the width of the hip strap, is to pull down on the harness to make sure it is impossible to pull it over you...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What combination of tools is ideal for 40-60 degree snow and ice slopes? (Piolet(s), Whippets, ice tools)

Personally I would go with poles and one ice-axe as long as possible. As soon as there are have prolonged steep slopes (defined by having to ascend with front points of crampons) I would take two a...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to begin trail / fell running?

In general there is nothing better than what you said: Go select a hill and start running. If you have (possibly experienced) company all the better. There is one point that you should keep in mind...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A Is it dangerous to rope together on an ascent of hard packed ice?

As mentioned by others: It is impossible to definitely judge the situation from just the photo, and that's all we have. As far as I see, there is no protection between the roped climbers here. So m...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the advantages of horizontal front points on crampons?

There are two (main) types of front points with crampons (that I am aware of): Vertical and horizontal ones. Usually vertical is used for technical mountaineering, ice and mixed climbing and horizo...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A What's the best way to swap lead when climbing in a group of three using a pair of half ropes?

My answer is nothing new, but as the method is only mentioned in the question itself and the existing extensive answer takes the opposite view, I still think it is worth writing down. We do this v...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A What is the most efficient strategy to melt snow using a stove?

For maximum efficiency (i.e. melted water per used fuel) make sure the following things are always true: Always have some water in the pot. Never have only water in the pot. Having water increa...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the correct technique for self arrest, with an ice axe, on a snow or ice slope?

The most important thing to remember is to prevent this situation. You should never find yourself in the position to slip down a slope. In many cases (steepness, snow/ice conditions, ...) there is ...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the pros and cons of using a red colored light source for hiking at night?

The linked question on biology.SE actually is for many aspect already the answer, one just needs to convert the findings to the outdoors/hiking. I will first reiterate the most important anatomical...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A How to inspect climbing bolts?

To add to a set of already great answers I would like to add two points: Glued bolts and weird old bolts. There are generally two types of bolts used presently: Mechanical and glued bolts. Mechani...

posted 8y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Gore-Tex: Does a wash-in DWR treatment affect breathability from the inside?

Yes, you should definitely use a spray-on. Arcteryx themselves explicitly state not to use wash-in (product care information) and Gore-Tex does it implicitly by telling you to apply "to the garmen...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A Are all Alpine winterraums just for emergency?

This might depend on the area. At least in Switzerland the answer is simple: You can use them for planned overnight stays. They are usually just a small part of the entire hut with none to rudimen...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How much does an overhang add to the difficulty of a problem?

Contrary to e.g. the aid climbing difficulty scale, sports climbing and bouldering scales are comparative (at least in the grades that came up after the seventies). So a grade does not directly tel...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Using Gri Gri 2's Carabiner with Another Belay Device?

The reasons for this recommendation are the same as with the recommendation to never use the rock side biner of a quickdraw with a rope. In both cases there is metal-metal contact. This leads to sc...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A What is the energy difference between green and seasoned fire wood?

TLDR You need about 15 to 20% more green wood to achieve the same amount of heating as with seasoned wood. Calculation According to the linked Wikipedia article green wood weighs 70-100% more th...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How safe is a chest harness when used without a sit harness?

TLDR: Never ever use a chest harness alone. It depends on what you mean by effective: It can stop a fall, there was a time (before the seventies) when chest harnesses (alone) were used in mountain...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Belaying directly off a ground anchor?

Advantages Weight difference This is reduced to whether the belayer has enough strength to control the brake strand (which is almost always the case, only extreme examples like small children are...

posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to get drinking water if I am stuck below Matterhorn summit?

The solvay biwak is solely an emergency shelter. There is an emergency radio available. So if you sleep there without declaring an emergency (even if just to inform the authorities) you have to exp...

posted 8y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A How can I tie my laces so they don't come undone?

First of all if you are really interested in tying your shoes, check out Ian's Shoelace Site. All credit for the imagery used here and most of the information given goes to the author Ian Fieggen. ...

posted 8y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Am I able to "open up" a snake bite and suck the venom out of it?

This is simply a compendium of relevant answers already given. Hopefully someone will come up with an original more detailed answer. This is from an answer by WedaPashi in What are the first aid p...

posted 8y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A Top Rope Anchors - is a figure-8 on a bight stronger or just easier to untie than an overhand knot?

This answer does not provide much new information to Ben Crowell's and Charlie Brumbaugh's, but I am not entirely in agreement with all their different conclusions. TLDR: In your use case and most...

posted 8y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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