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Posts by imsodin‭

197 posts
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Q&A Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?

Retire that sling. Use it for some handicraft work at home or similar. Firstly: If in doubt about a piece of gear, don't entrust your live to it. Doing a more detailed analysis without seeing it ...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A When clipping into quickdraws, is it dangerous to pass a finger through the gate?

As there's ample anecdotal evidence, bad things can happen when doing this. There's also ample anecdotal evidence, that bad things will likely not happen. When bad things happen, scratches and even...

posted 4y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Cycle of actions and voice signals on a multipitch climb

@BenCrowell describes the sequence nicely and @Jasper brings up reducing commands. Due to circumstances (no visual contact and out of earshot) and simply to reduce the yelling on the mountain (both...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are known failure modes of the auto-braking mechanism of Grigris?

Disclaimer first: The brake-hand principle (always hold the braking strand of the rope) always applies to assisted braking belay devices, including the Grigri. This question is in no way targeted a...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to belay top-rope climbers who are ascending quickly?

I'd very much recommend using a GriGri or one of the newer device with the same mechanism. Reason being, the braking mechanism is not dependent on the position of the braking hand. Thus you can pul...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is a slackline, ratchet, and tree protector alone enough equipment to setup the slackline?

The description is one red flag for me, as it displays no knowledge about the product: It mixes general or over the top advertisement statements ("MAXIMUM SAFETY") with facts that have nothing to d...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Transition from ascending to descending a rope

Whatever you do, you will need to take off the load from the tuber in locking mode. So I'd use the same technique as when going over a knot (well there's probably more than one technique for that, ...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A What safety concerns are there about automatic belay machines?

Regarding your own safety: Attachment: Do actually use and clip into the auto-belay system. It sounds ridiculous, but according to @Guran did happen, and it's not that hard to imagine. In many gy...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Using a Snow jacket for non snow conditions?

I'd like to challenge a premise of your question: I noticed that snow jackets tend to be cheaper than soft shell jackets and that they are waterproof and wind resistant, so I was wondering what...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can't find friction slider adjustment on Tyrolia PR10 bindings?

You don't need to be looking any further - there is no such adjustment screw. Reason being, there's nothing adjustable there. The purpose of this slider is to facilitate your ski boot moving sidewa...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A How much heel is optimal on a small katamaran in low wind?

I am a novice sailor (at best) and natively German-speaking, so the question might contain incorrect use of sailing terms and further misconceptions - thanks for any pointers in comments. In high ...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question sailing boats wind
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Q&A How to transport personal belongings while swimming long distance?

There are these types of dry-bags that float and are combined with a leash and waist band. They are often marketed as primarely a "safety buoy", as they provide you with visibility, which is defini...

posted 6y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can an overhand loop be used to shorten nylon webbing as a personal anchor?

You should worry about the opposite: An overhand knot on nylon webbing will get really tight and hard to undo once no longer in use. That's why I rather use a figure-eight in this scenario (double ...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What to do when one point in a climbing anchor breaks?

While I technically agree with Liam's answer, I think there is two reasons why I would act differently: Purely for psychological reasons (personal peace of mind) and to keep redundancy consistent. ...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Using hiking boots for amateur rock-climbing

Mountaineering boots are made for rock climbing - in addition to hiking, walking/climbing with crampons, ... This means there is a compromise between multiple purposes, while dedicated climbing sho...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What temperature is needed for heat molding ski boot liners? Isn't body temperature enough for that?

Body heat isn't enough (caveat: of course there may be liners for which it is, but not typically). but that doesn't mean you need a "commercial heating device". Intuition liners (no affiliation, t...

posted 5y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A How to follow an existing angle when sharpening?

This question was prompted by the advice to "follow the existing angles" in this answer on sharpening ice screws. I have heard the same advice when it comes to resharpening knives. Of course, there...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the defintion of a "unisex tent"?

Existing answer already give good reasons why there might be an unisex tag even though it's factually irrelevant. There is one much less involved reason: Shop templates. The linked Fjällräven shop ...

posted 6y ago by imsodin‭

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Q&A Emergency use hydration products - effectivness vs cost

I can't say I have any experience on these specific products, but I do have quite a bit of experience of diarrhea in an environment where you need to manage it yourself. I was fortunate enough to t...

posted 6y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Knots when abseiling with single rope

Safety disclaimer first I have a rope of 10 m which supports 3 kN (300 kg) strength. I will abseil with it as a single rope. Edit addressing the new info about the rope: Please don't use this...

posted 6y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A How fast does a climbing rope recover its dynamic properties after a fall?

The defining feature of a climbing rope (arguably) is its dynamic properties, i.e. it stops your fall gradually to decrease the peak force. Not exceeding a fixed peak force is a/the integral criter...

1 answer  ·  posted 6y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

Question climbing ropes safety
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Q&A Why is a Reverso not useful when belaying a first that's crossing a Bergschrund?

The problem is specific to all tuber type belay devices. The important factor is not the Bergschrund, but the direction of pull in case of a fall. The scenario describe is not falling into the Berg...

posted 6y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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