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Q&A

Posts tagged climbing

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Q&A Alpinism without short roping?

I am looking for a way into alpinism. The most common route I've found is signing up for a multi-day guided group course in a place like Chamonix, culminating in a small summit like Petite Aiguille...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by RRobert‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Techniques for handling pumped arms?

I love rock climbing and I try to go to my local gym and boulder as often as possible (usually 2-3 times a week). But it's really hard for me to climb for any extended period of time because my arm...

9 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by James‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I know when to choose between a Klemheist or prussik knot?

Both effectively do the same job, grip a rope as an auto bloc or an ascender. What are the pros and cons of each? Why/when would I choose one over the other?

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing prusik
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Q&A When did wearing a helmet become the norm for climbing?

This is going out primarily to those who have been climbing for 20yrs + Back in the day, helmet use was optional and not particularly popular. These days, things seemed to have taken a dramatic cha...

5 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How use a nylon cordelette as an adjustable tether for rock climbing?

Sometimes when clipping in people who are rappelling, or setting up anchors in some places from above or showing people how to get onto a fixed line, I need an adjustable tether. I often carry a n...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there a way to find out the age of climbing ropes?

I have two half ropes from Camp that are basically unused, but are slowly getting old, and I would like to know their age. Is there a way to do that? I know the name of the model: Camp Plekton 8....

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by april rain‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing ropes
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Q&A Distel Hitch vs Prussik

The Distel Hitch and Prussik both appear to be slide and grip knots, used for ascending a climbing rope. I have heard of people using Prussik many times more often than Distel Hitch. Which is a b...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing safety
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Q&A What is this white substance some climbers smear on their legs?

In Dean Potters and Sean Leary's 2010 attempt to take the speed record of The Nose at El Capitan in Yosemite, Dean Potter has something white on his legs (and arms?): What could this be, and whi...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to use campus boards

I'm looking at improving (actually starting) my training regime. My local climbing Gym has just installed various campus boards. How do you use these to train effectively? What's the technique p...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing training
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Q&A Should I do exercises for finger strength as an intermediate, heavy climber?

I am climbing for quite a while now and would consider myself a beginning-intermediate climber. I feel my technique has significantly improved over the last year. I am very heavy (1,80m and ~100kg)...

6 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Using hiking boots for amateur rock-climbing

What are the practical aspects of using good quality hiking boots (e.g. ones shown below) for climbing? Arguably, an outdoor enthusiast might be involved in various sorts of activities from hik...

6 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Yogesch‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing: fear/panic on boulder wall

I am wondering if anyone else has experienced fear/panic that gets in the way of bouldering, and what their tips are for dealing with this. (There is a prior question on fear in lead climbing, but ...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Mary‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Keeping the things interesting in a small climbing gym

I had been a regular climber half a decade back. And, then I got off the routine. Now I am trying to get back into climbing. For that, I go to a local climbing gym kind of thing managed by a frien...

4 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Should I take my weight into account when buying and retiring climbing equipment?

In this excellent answer to Ideal and Minimal Rope Diameter for Lead Climbing it is shown how the falling weight affects the drops a rope is expected to survive. This led me to the following ques...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question gear climbing safety
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Q&A Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated?

I resumed climbing a couple of months back after a gap of a couple of years. After spending a month of quality time at the wall regularly in order to get back in touch, I have started to try differ...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How long can a new climbing rope be safe?

I have a climbing rope (Maxim, 11mm) that I bought back around 2008-2009 (so it's about 10 years old now). It has never been used, it's been stored properly, and the sheath and core appear to be i...

0 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by James‭

Question climbing top-roping
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Q&A How to shorten alpine slings into an alpine quickdraw?

Alpine slings are usually 60cm long and while they can be slung over one shoulder, it's much easier to carry them on your harness at 1/3 of the size in an alpine quickdraw. How would one shorten t...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing
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Q&A What needs to be clipped to the climbing harness, and how to carry all additional gear?

I have been piling up carabiners, cordelette loops, webbing, ATC devices, Gri-Gri, etc., and it is all now hanging from my harness. This adds a considerable amount of weight and becomes a bit unwie...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Enjoy nature‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to overcome the fear of falling in lead climbing

I used to really enjoy climbing (almost all indoors). I was bouldering around V2-3 and leading at 5+. The mismatch was all down to fear of falling - I would repeatedly bail or fall from routes th...

7 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by aucuparia‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing training
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Q&A Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?

I have a 120cm nylon runner that I want to use to tether me to an anchor bolt while cleaning the anchor. The runner has a small fray (pictures below). Is it safe to use?

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Chris Morris‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to walk as a roped party on a glacier?

If you want to walk on a glacier you usually do this roped together as a team. How to walk as a roped party on a glacier? What I have to pay attention to when knotting the rope? Related ques...

3 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can an overhand loop be used to shorten nylon webbing as a personal anchor?

Is it safe to girth-hitch nylon webbing through my harness tie-in points and then shorten the webbing via an overhand loop (assume it is too long) and clipping the non-bight part to the bolt in the...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Chris Morris‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

My girlfriend often complains that a route or boulder was created for tall climbers. In my experience that sometimes is true: I easily get a hold, she has to jump. However, Lynn Hill proved that a ...

9 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What counts as climbing a mountain?

Obviously by anyone's definition, you need to reach the top to successfully climb a mountain, but after hiking to the top of Guadalupe Peak, where the peak is at 8,751 ft, but with a prominence of ...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Travis‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Train climbing with additional weight?

What is your opinion: Does it make sense to train rock climbing wearying a weight vest or a small backpack carrying a small amount of weight (let's say 1-3kg or 2-6.5lb) to mimic the actual weight ...

4 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Arne‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Good resources for climbing

We have a number of questions dealing with how start climbing, how to learn it (and how not to learn it) - e.g. Is it realistic to teach yourself rock climbing?, What to teach someone who wants to ...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can I theoritcally climb The Mount Erciyes in the summer?

I recently wanted to climb that mountain because I literally love pushing myself and it looks fun. Information about me I am a 15.9 year old male teen (14-12-02) I live in İzmir Karşıyaka (30 me...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Delta Oscar Uniform‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A is it safe to use a 4mm cord for French Prusik auto-block friction hitch when rappelling off parallel 10mm dynamic rope?

I want to rappel off of 10mm dynamic rope. The rope will be fed through both sides of the ATC device (parallel). Is it safe to use a 4mm cord for my French Prusik auto-block knot? There is a simil...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Chris Morris‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing rappelling
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Q&A What are the most important numerical features to look for when comparing climbing ropes?

When comparing dynamic ropes (single ropes) for climbing, which properties do really matter? I'm thinking about weight per meter and price, maybe diameter for very special belay devices. I'm goi...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Jasper‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question gear climbing
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Q&A At what angle should an ice screw be screwed into the ice?

Recently we were climbing up a glacier with the ice at an angle of around 80°. We were placing the ice screws angling slightly upwards with respect to the slope of the ice wall. However, one from...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Ricketyship‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What rockfall protection equipment are there other than helmets?

We went climbing on a glacier recently. There was one issue which I couldn't find a solution to. While belaying from below (on the first pitch), it was pretty much impossible to protect self from r...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Ricketyship‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How should a climbing rope be cleaned?

What products and process should be used to clean a climbing rope when it gets sufficiently dirty? How would I remove as much dirt and grime as possible without negatively affecting the strength o...

3 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by STW‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is clipping onto the rungs of a via ferrata bad practice?

I did my first via ferrata this weekend and noticed there were often long vertical distances separating the cable anchors. At times this length was around 10m. This meant that a fall before reachin...

5 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by alkey‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Internal (unseen) damage from a 40ft climbing fall

I am aware that the statistics regarding a 40ft climbing fall, which result in "decking-out" are not favorable. I survived such a fall only recently. Major injuries seem to have only been a broken ...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How unsafe is this belay technique really?

One person I regularly climb with uses a belay technique that I was taught to be unsafe, so I would like to know just how unsafe it really is. With a classic tube-style belay device, after taking i...

4 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Sebastian Reichelt‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are opposite and opposed carabiners?

It is often said that when using two carabiners at the same point, such as an anchor, they should be opposite and opposed. What exactly does this mean?

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to progress in rock climbing after grades v4 / 5.11+?

I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. Indoors, ...

3 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by Ice76‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do you decide on a climbing grade?

Rock climbing and bouldering tours are classified e.g. Sierra from 5.2 to 5.15c or Fontainbleau 2 to 8c+. As you advance in your climbing experience you achieve higher grades and learn new move...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What can I do to help relieve joint pain in fingers after climbing?

After I've been climbing for a while, my finger joints are very sore. Is there anything I can do to relieve that pain?

7 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Reverend Gonzo‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the best way to place a sling on a rock spike so that it's prevented from lifting off?

I occasionally place slings on rock spikes as trad climbing protection. If the spike is not very tall or thick the slings can become easily dislodged as the rope passes though the quickdraw/carabin...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A When did indoor climbing gyms start to become popular?

I am trying to learn some history about rock climbing. I know initially rock climbing was purely an outdoor activity, and according to this article in the 1990s indoor climbing gyms started to spri...

4 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by user3667089‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can I use SteriGENE broad spectrum disinfectant on abseil rope?

I work in ecologically sensitive areas in NZ and my ropes routinely get soiled. I have been asked by the Dept of Conservation to clean and disinfect my ropes to minimise the chances of accidentall...

1 answer  ·  posted 6y ago by user34581‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing outdoors makes the skin of my palm red and sensitive

I mostly climb at a rock climbing gym, and I can climb for hours until my forearms run out of gas. However, when I climb outdoors, usually the reason I have to stop is because the skin of my palm...

1 answer  ·  posted 6y ago by user3667089‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to safely mark a rope

I was reading this question and the first thing that popped into my head is what do you use to mark the middle of the rope? I was taught not to use any kind of marker on the rope (because there's ...

7 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Roflo‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to tape torn skin to continue climbing?

I have got this annoying issue when bouldering: a sheared callus on the small finger: I would like to tape this and continue climbing (with extra caution). I am not an expert in taping, and any ...

2 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there any practical use for a grappling hook?

A friend was asking about grappling hooks the other day, apparently they'd seen a mountaineering program where the guy carried a grappling hook. We couldn't quite figure out why, I've never seen an...

7 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A What would make one brick wall harder than another?

Inspired mostly by this question, where a person was asking what the climbing rating of a brick wall was. Compared to all of the varied climbs in nature with the many different rock features and t...

1 answer  ·  posted 6y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to instruct someone how to take off a climbing harness?

After rappelling near waterfalls, or during the rain, the harness often becomes wet and hard to remove -- particularly for inexperienced people. How can I instruct someone in how to remove the har...

5 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

Question gear climbing harness
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Q&A How to tie a super eight / double figure eight / bunny ear knot?

Note, I am not asking how to tie three different types of knots, but rather one knot that goes by three different names. Its a knot that can be useful in building anchors especially at the top of ...

2 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing
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Q&A How fast does a climbing rope recover its dynamic properties after a fall?

The defining feature of a climbing rope (arguably) is its dynamic properties, i.e. it stops your fall gradually to decrease the peak force. Not exceeding a fixed peak force is a/the integral criter...

1 answer  ·  posted 6y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

Question climbing ropes safety