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Q&A

Posts tagged sport-climbing

Subtag of climbing

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Q&A Cotton climbing pants with a zipper pocket (outdoor rock climbing use for small female climbers)

the "politicised" debate of female clothing not having pockets (it is especially about skirts and dresses) left aside, I wonder if there are any cotton climbing pants left on the market that have a...

0 answers  ·  posted 3y ago by canIchangethis‭  ·  last activity 3y ago by System‭

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Q&A What counts as on- or off-route while outdoor climbing?

I did a few sport climbs this week, and on two, it seemed that the area between bolts was just blank, and if I went to the side it was easier. I could still reach the bolts, but I was afraid I was ...

1 answer  ·  posted 3y ago by endolith‭  ·  last activity 3y ago by System‭

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Q&A Jelly Knees while climbing

I have been climbing for more than 10 months now. I had been climbing regularly for 6 months before, unfortunately, I had a 2-3 months break from climbing. When I have gotten back to it now, I find...

2 answers  ·  posted 3y ago by nGlacTOwnS‭  ·  last activity 3y ago by System‭

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Q&A How is an attempt defined in sport climbing?

I started to track my finished routes and I cannot find anywhere a definiton of an attempt. Of course if I try to send the route, give up in falf, go down, have a snack and then go again and finish...

3 answers  ·  posted 3y ago by Filip Šotola‭  ·  last activity 3y ago by System‭

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Q&A When clipping into quickdraws, is it dangerous to pass a finger through the gate?

When learning to sport climb, I was taught not to pass any of my fingers through the gate of the carabiner when clipping into a quickdraw. Lest any of my fingers get stuck and degloved in the case ...

2 answers  ·  posted 3y ago by Moormanly‭  ·  last activity 3y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

Why do climbing professional use less than 5 fingers on some holds? From https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/ I mean, why don't they put the other fingers, even if they don't quite...

4 answers  ·  posted 3y ago by Mathieu Krisztian‭  ·  last activity 3y ago by System‭

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Q&A What safety concerns are there about automatic belay machines?

I have just tried using an automatic belay machine in an indoor climbing gym. I didn't receive any specific safety training, but it seems to be straightforward. So what safety concerns should I pay...

1 answer  ·  posted 3y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 3y ago by System‭

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Q&A Avoiding a "ding-dong" when lead belaying in the gym?

I sometimes climb in the gym with a partner who outweighs me by about 50%. When he's leading and falls from above his protection, I can get pulled up to the first clip. If he's not very far up, thi...

4 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?

I have a 120cm nylon runner that I want to use to tether me to an anchor bolt while cleaning the anchor. The runner has a small fray (pictures below). Is it safe to use?

1 answer  ·  posted 4y ago by Chris Morris‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

My girlfriend often complains that a route or boulder was created for tall climbers. In my experience that sometimes is true: I easily get a hold, she has to jump. However, Lynn Hill proved that a ...

9 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs? In order to avoid a strength oriented climbing style and focus on technique.

4 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A What's the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional Climbing?

What is the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional (Trad) Climbing? Is it just that Sport Climbing uses bolts?

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Scotty.NET‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the minimum grade of the routes set in the IFSC world cups?

I was recently watching the IFSC world cup held in Meiringen. One of the interesting observations that came across (made by the commentators) in the semis was that the routes were much easier for a...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Ricketyship‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Searching for a sport route in the Brian&#xE7;on area, France

I am searching for a limestone multi-pitch sport route in France, in the Briançon area, that is nicely bolted, up to 5c (French grade) difficult and that has at least 7 pitches. I am searching onl...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Dakatine‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What kind of ropes are used for very long sport routes (like Chilam Balam)?

This is a question that has bugged me for some time. Some very hard sport routes are very, very long. Some examples: Chilam Balam: 80 m (260 ft) - Video (Adam Ondra) Jumbo Love: 75 m (250 ft) - V...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by valerio‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A When, how and by whom was sport climbing invented?

A comment: One little thing that I understand differently: Sport climbing did not evolve from trad climbing (at least not in the modern sense), but more of artificial climbing. Using gear f...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?

How can I choose the right climbing shoes especially for toe and heel hooking? More specifically: I have been using very comfortable beginner shoes for the last two years. When I started to advanc...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Does "Sport Climbing" refer to bolted climbing outdoors only or both indoors and outdoors

I was having a debate with my friend on the definition of "Sport Climbing". We both agree it means rock climbing with no pre-setup ropes on a bolted route. I think regardless of whether this rout...

4 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by user3667089‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Rock climbing grading theory

How to grade a route when cumulating grades for multiple sections? Is it based on the overall feeling of difficulty or is there some cumulative formula to apply which yields a more or less accurate...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Silex‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Bouldering, improving and getting up grades

I have been climbing (lead-climbing/top-roping/bouldering) for less than a year now but after quickly improving for the first couple of months I have now reached a "plateau" as they say and I don't...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by SkyTalentz‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What's the easiest way of improving my strength without a large investment of time?

I've been climbing for about 7 years starting when I was 31 years old. Initially I made rapid progress as I learned the various techniques etc, but after about a year I plateaued and I haven't rea...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Benj‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I know when to retire a climbing harness?

I've only been climbing a few months. I bought a harness and have been using it. I know they don't last forever. How do I know when to stop using it and buy a new one? (How should I check climb...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by endolith‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Lead climb weight ratios

I'm about 150ish lbs and my partner is 100ish lbs. I've read somewhere that a 2/3 weight ratio between belayer and climber is ok for lead climb, but I don't remember exactly where. Can someone co...

2 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by Adrian‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Red River Gorge Summer

I'm planning a rock climbing trip this summer and I've been considering the Red River Gorge as a possible stop. I've been there before in the late fall and it was absolutely awesome in terms of spo...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by Peter Conti‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What to do when you run out of rope on a sports climb?

The situation is, that you started a high route with fixed protection (bolts) and misjudged its length, so before reaching the belay the middle mark of the rope passes the belayer. What can you do...

6 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to go about replacing sport climbing bolts?

There has been handful discussions about How to fix a bolt on a climbing route. But there seldom any point made about How the one should go about when removing/replacing the bolts. When to decide...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Bolt Conditions at the New River Gorge

I am getting back into sport climbing and I am planning a trip to the NRG. I get very nervous about safety issues in regards to climbing, almost to the point where I don't want to start again. One...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by Andrew‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?

What is recommended after finishing a sport climb--lowering off from the anchors or rappelling ? Rappelling preserves the hardware better, but is usually thought to be more dangerous since you take...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?

From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing

I was doing a sport climb recently where there was a pretty good distance between bolts, resulting in long rope runouts. Falling before the next bolt could easily cause a person to deck on a ledge....

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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