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Posts by valerio‭

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Q&A Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?

Reading the comments and discussing with other users helped me get a much better idea of the possible causes why we hear of so many hard (sometimes free) ascents on El Capitan and almost none on Ha...

posted 5y ago by valerio‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Answer
66%
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Q&A Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?

I follow the international rock climbing scene, and we constantly hear of repetitions of hard routes on El Capitan. On Youtube, it is possible to find many videos of strong climbers from all over...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by valerio‭  ·  edited 2y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭

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Q&A Which knot for climbing: figure eight, yosemite bowline, bowline on a bight?

From my personal experience, people either use a double bowline (*) or a double figure 8. The bowline (in my experience!) is used only by fairly experienced climbers, probably because it is more di...

posted 5y ago by valerio‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A When, how and by whom was sport climbing invented?

As far as I know, the "change of paradigm" that led to the birth of sport climbing happened between the 70s and the 80s, and it happened separately in Europe and in the United States. From the ear...

posted 5y ago by valerio‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What kind of ropes are used for very long sport routes (like Chilam Balam)?

This is a question that has bugged me for some time. Some very hard sport routes are very, very long. Some examples: Chilam Balam: 80 m (260 ft) - Video (Adam Ondra) Jumbo Love: 75 m (250 ft) - V...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by valerio‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing before 1950: photography book/database

I am looking for a book or digital database of rock climbing pictures from before 1950. I tried to search online, but, except for a few pictures, I didn't have much luck. Also, the name of the ph...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by valerio‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A If the Dawn Wall had been climbed before, why was the 2015 attempt so difficult?

Liam's answer is spot-on, but I would like to add some details. "Dawn wall" is actually not the name of a route, but of a portion of the south-east face of El Capitan, which you can see in the fig...

posted 5y ago by valerio‭

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Q&A Using hiking boots for amateur rock-climbing

A somewhat provocative answer is that... it all depends on how good you are! The ancestors of modern climbing shoes were born in the 30s, with the PA shoes of Pierre Allain, who observed that snea...

posted 4y ago by valerio‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

Answer

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