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Activity for valerio‭

Type On... Excerpt Status Date
Answer A: Using hiking boots for amateur rock-climbing
A somewhat provocative answer is that... it all depends on how good you are! The ancestors of modern climbing shoes were born in the 30s, with the PA shoes of Pierre Allain, who observed that sneaker were more efficient than hard hiking boots when performing technical climbing. The original idea was...
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almost 4 years ago
Answer A: If the Dawn Wall had been climbed before, why was the 2015 attempt so difficult?
Liam's answer is spot-on, but I would like to add some details. "Dawn wall" is actually not the name of a route, but of a portion of the south-east face of El Capitan, which you can see in the figure below: Figure: the south-east face of El Cap. From www.xRez.com The first ascension of El Cap pa...
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almost 5 years ago
Question Climbing before 1950: photography book/database
I am looking for a book or digital database of rock climbing pictures from before 1950. I tried to search online, but, except for a few pictures, I didn't have much luck. Also, the name of the photographer and/or the source are often not reported in the pictures that I found online. The period I a...
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almost 5 years ago
Answer A: When, how and by whom was sport climbing invented?
As far as I know, the "change of paradigm" that led to the birth of sport climbing happened between the 70s and the 80s, and it happened separately in Europe and in the United States. From the early 1900s to the 50s, rock climbing was mostly seen as a "tool" necessary to reach the summit of a mounta...
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about 5 years ago
Answer A: Which knot for climbing: figure eight, yosemite bowline, bowline on a bight?
From my personal experience, people either use a double bowline () or a double figure 8. The bowline (in my experience!) is used only by fairly experienced climbers, probably because it is more difficult to execute. I will list some pros/cons of the two knots; remind anyway that both knots are abso...
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about 5 years ago
Question What kind of ropes are used for very long sport routes (like Chilam Balam)?
This is a question that has bugged me for some time. Some very hard sport routes are very, very long. Some examples: Chilam Balam: 80 m (260 ft) - Video (Adam Ondra) Jumbo Love: 75 m (250 ft) - Video (Ethan Pringle) Change: 55 m (180 ft) - Video (Adam Ondra) As far as I know, commercially availab...
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about 5 years ago
Answer A: Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?
Reading the comments and discussing with other users helped me get a much better idea of the possible causes why we hear of so many hard (sometimes free) ascents on El Capitan and almost none on Half Dome. 1. The approach Fig. 1 - The two possible approaches to HD and the Regular NW Face route [F...
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over 5 years ago
Question Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?
I follow the international rock climbing scene, and we constantly hear of repetitions of hard routes on El Capitan. On Youtube, it is possible to find many videos of strong climbers from all over the world climbing (sometimes free) routes such as The Nose, Golden Gate, Zodiac, Freerider and Salat...
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over 5 years ago