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Posts by shimizu‭

23 posts
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Q&A Is it polite to ask other climbers to belay for you?

I think even asking sometimes can be impolite. Some people just have a hard time saying 'no', even if they don't want you there. If there's a good chance they wouldn't want you in the group, don't ...

posted 8y ago by shimizu‭

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Q&A Ice skating on a frozen lake -- how thick should the ice be?

Found an answer by Minnesota's Department of Natural Resources. For new, clear ice, 4 inches should be good for ice skating or any activity involving just a person's weight. They recommend double ...

posted 9y ago by shimizu‭

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Q&A Ice skating on a frozen lake -- how thick should the ice be?

When ice skating on a frozen lake or river, how thick should the ice be in order to have fairly high confidence you aren't going to fall through? A small drill (for ice fishing) is available to de...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Does cotton really kill?

Here is an article that quantifies the heat loss effects of cotton, polyester and polypropylene: Rossi et al., Dry and Wet Heat Transfer Through Clothing Dependent on the Clothing Properties Under ...

posted 9y ago by shimizu‭

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Q&A What's the most remote place in the contiguous US?

Project Remote was started by a scientifically-minded couple to quantitatively determine the most remote locations in each of the 50 states mainly using the distance to the nearest road or town and...

posted 9y ago by shimizu‭

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Q&A Resoling climbing shoes yourself

Does anyone have experience trying to resole climbing shoes using products like the Five Ten resole kits? If so, how involved was the process and how did it turn out? I'm trying to decide whether...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

Question diy climbing-shoes
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Q&A When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?

As the comments have mentioned, grades vary somewhat between gyms, but I think you can still provide some rough guidelines. Peg boards can probably be done by anyone at any climbing level. You're...

posted 9y ago by shimizu‭

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Q&A What is a dish or dish-like hand hold in rock climbing?

From my experience, a dish hold is one containing a smooth, shallow concave indentation, generally looking like the shape of a bowl or dish. I think it would fall under the sloper category, althoug...

posted 6y ago by shimizu‭

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Q&A Where do I document first ascents?

In the United States, a lot of climbers use www.mountainproject.com (MP) to document outdoor climbs and first ascents. If you discover a new boulder problem or bolt a new route, you could submit it...

posted 8y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Bouldering, improving and getting up grades

If you are in the V0-V2 range, the sure-fire way to get better is to climb with more volume and intensity. Here are some practical things you can do: Work your way up to be able to climb 3x a wee...

posted 8y ago by shimizu‭

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Q&A Does cotton really kill?

For outdoor hiking, backpacking or camping trips, I always hear people saying Cotton Kills. That means don't wear cotton anywhere (underwear, shirts, pants), and no cotton blends. Usually it's give...

7 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Using the Yosemite Decimal System, how difficult is Everest?

This post provides a YDS rating for various sections of the Everest climb. Recall that the YDS rating system begins at class 1 for easy trail walking, class 4 is like climbing a ladder, and technic...

posted 9y ago by shimizu‭

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Q&A Arm compression sleeves for climbing

A lot of runners use calf and leg compression sleeves, as these are supposed to improve blood flow. It would seem a logical extension to use compression sleeves on your forearms during climbing, es...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question climbing
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Q&A How to go about replacing sport climbing bolts?

I'm guessing from how you phrased your question that you are really interested in how rebolting, specifically bolt removal, is performed. I have never rebolted anything, but the ASCA (American Safe...

posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A What does it mean to free a climbing route?

Sometimes I read articles about climbers having freed a route. For example: "Lynn Hill freed the Nose". What does this exactly mean in terms of how they climbed it? Specifically: Are they not al...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to use campus boards

Moving up a 1 cm wide campus board one hand at a time is on par with the intensity of V4/V5 boulder moves, approximately. So unless you're very comfortable bouldering in this range, it's not sugges...

posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?

Here are some features to keep in mind when buying climbing shoes once you're past the beginner phase: Downturned: Most beginner shoes are pretty flat, which are fine for mainly vertical walls. H...

posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?

What is recommended after finishing a sport climb--lowering off from the anchors or rappelling ? Rappelling preserves the hardware better, but is usually thought to be more dangerous since you take...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing

I was doing a sport climb recently where there was a pretty good distance between bolts, resulting in long rope runouts. Falling before the next bolt could easily cause a person to deck on a ledge....

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there a best practices guide online for rock climbing safety?

I've recently started sport climbing outdoors and was looking for some definitive safety information published by some reputable organization (i.e. American Mountain Guides Assocation, AMGA), but I...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Group camping - cooking equipment and eating utensils packing list

For canoe camping with a large group (say 10-15 people) for 3 days, what/how much should we pack for cooking equipment/supplies (minus the actual food) and eating utensils? The group is relatively...

4 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

Question camping cooking
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Q&A Brick Wall Rating

Unlike others, I think the route is pretty well described. There's basically a lot of flat, useable feet and a lot of flat crimp holds that are roughly 1/2 cm thick on a 90-degree wall. I think the...

posted 10y ago by shimizu‭

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Q&A How to anchor a raft on a river

The past couple years I've been taking a homemade raft out onto the Charles River in Boston to see the fireworks on July 4th (think an old boxspring mattress holding 4 people). One problem we alway...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭