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Activity for shimizu‭

Type On... Excerpt Status Date
Answer A: What is a dish or dish-like hand hold in rock climbing?
From my experience, a dish hold is one containing a smooth, shallow concave indentation, generally looking like the shape of a bowl or dish. I think it would fall under the sloper category, although slopers include both smooth concave and convex surfaces. Below are some examples: The indentation...
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over 6 years ago
Answer A: Where do I document first ascents?
In the United States, a lot of climbers use www.mountainproject.com (MP) to document outdoor climbs and first ascents. If you discover a new boulder problem or bolt a new route, you could submit it here and enter any first ascent (FA) information. See example below: Some climbs had first ascents w...
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almost 8 years ago
Answer A: Is it polite to ask other climbers to belay for you?
I think even asking sometimes can be impolite. Some people just have a hard time saying 'no', even if they don't want you there. If there's a good chance they wouldn't want you in the group, don't put them in a difficult situation. Probably Don't Ask: A group of 2 climbers obviously on a climbing ...
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about 8 years ago
Answer A: Bouldering, improving and getting up grades
If you are in the V0-V2 range, the sure-fire way to get better is to climb with more volume and intensity. Here are some practical things you can do: Work your way up to be able to climb 3x a week (a day rest in-between). When first starting out, you may need 2 or 3 days to recover. Try to climb en...
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about 8 years ago
Answer A: Ice skating on a frozen lake -- how thick should the ice be?
Found an answer by Minnesota's Department of Natural Resources. For new, clear ice, 4 inches should be good for ice skating or any activity involving just a person's weight. They recommend double that thickness (8 inches) for white ice which has about half the strength.
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over 9 years ago
Question Ice skating on a frozen lake -- how thick should the ice be?
When ice skating on a frozen lake or river, how thick should the ice be in order to have fairly high confidence you aren't going to fall through? A small drill (for ice fishing) is available to determine the thickness of the ice. I saw this question, but couldn't find any mention of a specific ran...
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over 9 years ago
Answer A: Does cotton really kill?
Here is an article that quantifies the heat loss effects of cotton, polyester and polypropylene: Rossi et al., Dry and Wet Heat Transfer Through Clothing Dependent on the Clothing Properties Under Cold Conditions, International Journal of Occupational Safety and Ergonomics (JOSE) 2008, Vol. 14, No. 1...
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over 9 years ago
Question Does cotton really kill?
For outdoor hiking, backpacking or camping trips, I always hear people saying Cotton Kills. That means don't wear cotton anywhere (underwear, shirts, pants), and no cotton blends. Usually it's given as a strict, no compromise rule if the temperature is somewhat cold &lt; 40F. I understand that cott...
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over 9 years ago
Answer A: What's the most remote place in the contiguous US?
Project Remote was started by a scientifically-minded couple to quantitatively determine the most remote locations in each of the 50 states mainly using the distance to the nearest road or town and whether cel phone coverage is available. They've cataloged quite a few states already east of the Missi...
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over 9 years ago
Answer A: Using the Yosemite Decimal System, how difficult is Everest?
This post provides a YDS rating for various sections of the Everest climb. Recall that the YDS rating system begins at class 1 for easy trail walking, class 4 is like climbing a ladder, and technical climbing begins at class 5. Overall, it seems like the climb up Everest is not very technical--it's...
(more)
over 9 years ago
Question Arm compression sleeves for climbing
A lot of runners use calf and leg compression sleeves, as these are supposed to improve blood flow. It would seem a logical extension to use compression sleeves on your forearms during climbing, especially on pumpy routes. Are there anecdotal or actual studies on the effectiveness of forearm compress...
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over 9 years ago
Answer A: When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?
As the comments have mentioned, grades vary somewhat between gyms, but I think you can still provide some rough guidelines. Peg boards can probably be done by anyone at any climbing level. You're not stressing your fingers really, so there's little chance of injury. It's essentially like practicing...
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over 9 years ago
Answer A: How to go about replacing sport climbing bolts?
I'm guessing from how you phrased your question that you are really interested in how rebolting, specifically bolt removal, is performed. I have never rebolted anything, but the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association) has pretty thorough articles for people interested in learning how to rebolt clim...
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over 9 years ago
Question What does it mean to free a climbing route?
Sometimes I read articles about climbers having freed a route. For example: "Lynn Hill freed the Nose". What does this exactly mean in terms of how they climbed it? Specifically: Are they not allowed to fall at all during the climb? Are there ropes and partners involved (like a normal multi-pitch ...
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over 9 years ago
Answer A: How to use campus boards
Moving up a 1 cm wide campus board one hand at a time is on par with the intensity of V4/V5 boulder moves, approximately. So unless you're very comfortable bouldering in this range, it's not suggested because you will probably injure yourself. If you are past this phase, then campusing is a very good...
(more)
over 9 years ago
Answer A: How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?
Here are some features to keep in mind when buying climbing shoes once you're past the beginner phase: Downturned: Most beginner shoes are pretty flat, which are fine for mainly vertical walls. However, as you climb harder stuff on overhanging walls, it's helpful to have downturned shoes for mainta...
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over 9 years ago
Question Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
What is recommended after finishing a sport climb--lowering off from the anchors or rappelling ? Rappelling preserves the hardware better, but is usually thought to be more dangerous since you take yourself off-belay. I'm assuming the answer changes depending on the hardware at the top: fixed ca...
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over 9 years ago
Question Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing
I was doing a sport climb recently where there was a pretty good distance between bolts, resulting in long rope runouts. Falling before the next bolt could easily cause a person to deck on a ledge. Luckily, no one fell at this point, but it was very precarious. My question is: What are some techniq...
(more)
over 9 years ago
Question Is there a best practices guide online for rock climbing safety?
I've recently started sport climbing outdoors and was looking for some definitive safety information published by some reputable organization (i.e. American Mountain Guides Assocation, AMGA), but I couldn't find anything. Does a best practices guide for climbing safely exist online? If there's an org...
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over 9 years ago
Question Group camping - cooking equipment and eating utensils packing list
For canoe camping with a large group (say 10-15 people) for 3 days, what/how much should we pack for cooking equipment/supplies (minus the actual food) and eating utensils? The group is relatively inexperienced at camping. We are going to the US Northeast in October, so it can get a little cold (30-...
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almost 10 years ago
Answer A: Brick Wall Rating
Unlike others, I think the route is pretty well described. There's basically a lot of flat, useable feet and a lot of flat crimp holds that are roughly 1/2 cm thick on a 90-degree wall. I think the grade depends on an accurate measurement of the crimp width--the grade could change +/-1 V grade if the...
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almost 10 years ago
Question How to anchor a raft on a river
The past couple years I've been taking a homemade raft out onto the Charles River in Boston to see the fireworks on July 4th (think an old boxspring mattress holding 4 people). One problem we always run into is anchoring the boat in the middle of the river (about 10-20ft deep, 5mph current). I'd li...
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almost 10 years ago
Question Resoling climbing shoes yourself
Does anyone have experience trying to resole climbing shoes using products like the Five Ten resole kits? If so, how involved was the process and how did it turn out? I'm trying to decide whether to send it off to a professional resoler or try doing it myself.
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almost 10 years ago