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Activity for Michael Borgwardt‭

Type On... Excerpt Status Date
Answer A: What&#x2019;s the main appeal for climbing outdoors?
One key aspect that has not been mentioned: routefinding indors is almost trivial, outdoors it becomes a real challenge and makes climbing a much more creative experience. In the gym, hold color (or tape) tells you exactly what features "exist" that you could use to proceed, and the number you can r...
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over 4 years ago
Answer A: Is clipping onto the rungs of a via ferrata bad practice?
If you understand what you're doing and why, do what is safe. First of all (probably obvious): you should never fall on a via ferrata, so don't do anything risky. Second: even a 10m + lanyard fall should not be fatal if you use a proper modern via ferrata set - those are designed to rip open in a c...
(more)
almost 6 years ago
Answer A: First time snow hiking
I'd like to address the safety angle specifically: the main things you need to concerned about being alone in the mountains in winter are: Sudden drastic weather changes Avalanches Being stuck in the cold, possibly overnight, because you got lost or injured. Being on a marked trail and staying on...
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about 6 years ago
Answer A: Are there ways to make the skin on my fingers last longer while climbing/bouldering?
There are some things that can prevent the skin from tearing off and getting the so-called "flappers": First, learn to control your center of gravity and your contact points with the wall so that you can make as many moves as possible statically: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfHS2LTEXA Because ...
(more)
over 6 years ago
Answer A: Rock climbing grading theory
There are many aspects to a climbing route's difficulty, so it is fundamentally questionable to lump it all into one number, and is really only accepted because most climbers don't have a huge imbalance in the different aspects of climbing proficiency, i.e. a climber who has very good technique proba...
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over 6 years ago
Answer A: How do forest fires affect rock climbing?
In addition to what the other answer says, a fire burning near a crag could weaken bolts; so if there is fire damage anywhere nearby, the bolts should be considered suspect and replaced (at least the anchors). As for the rock itself, I'd approach it like a new crag that has not been climbed before, ...
(more)
over 6 years ago
Answer A: Does putting an item in a microwave oven kill ticks (and other bugs)?
I wouldn't count on this working dependably, especially with shoes. The problem is that a microwave works by directly heating up certain molecules, most importantly water. And the energy from the microwave is spread over all such molecules in it. If your clothes are sweaty, there could easily be enou...
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over 6 years ago
Answer A: How do I know when to retire a climbing harness?
When it's beyond the lifetime recommended by the manufacturer. When you see abrasion or damage that is more than superficial on any of the load-bearing components. This means you have to inspect your harness regularly. When it has been in contact with a number of strongly corrosive substances. When ...
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almost 7 years ago
Answer A: Good resources for climbing
9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes, by DaveMcLeod focuses very much on one thing: how to get better at climbing, mostly from a mental and organizational point of view. The author sometimes gets rambling at times, but undeniably gives good and well-founded advice. If you're serious about push...
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about 7 years ago
Answer A: Techniques for handling pumped arms?
What you can do before a given climb is to warm up, which may involve climbing something easier. I've definitely noticed that I pump out more quickly if I hop directly on a route at my limit, compared to climbing one or two easier ones to warm up. For getting rid of pumped forearms, I've had good su...
(more)
about 7 years ago
Answer A: How to train climbing endurance at home?
You can also train endurance at the bouldering gym (at least when it's not too crowded) by doing "4x4" exercises: Do 4 relatively easy bouldering problems back-to-back without any pause between them, ideally ones that are next to each other. Rest just enough so you're not out of breath anymore; If ...
(more)
over 7 years ago
Answer A: Lead climb weight ratios
A 2/3 weight ratio is definitely at the absolut top of what is routinely manageable for lead climbing, and I would not recommend that for novices. Additional weights are an option, but 10 pounds will probably not be enough. The center of gravity for the belayer is not really an issue, but a lot of w...
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over 7 years ago
Answer A: Avoiding microbial contamination of diesel fuel
Bacteria and fungi can only grow in water, not in the fuel itself. If a fuel tank is unused and resting for a longer time, the small water content in the fuel can separate at the bottom and provide a viable environment. Usually, the fuel will be extracted at the lowest point of the tank, so that acc...
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over 7 years ago
Answer A: Why are climbing shoes usually a slightly tighter than the usual mountaineering shoes?
Climbing shoes need to be extremely tight because they frequently have to support a lot of weight on extremely tiny footholds, often on the tip of the toes: Any free space inside the shoe could cause the shoe to deform (more) and slip off. : putting on the shoes should not be painful right away, ...
(more)
over 7 years ago
Answer A: Is ankle support a myth?
There are a number of studies cited in this forum thread. Subjects were filmed at 60 Hz while on an inversion platform that suddenly inverted the right ankle 35 degrees . We measured 5 trials of sudden inversion for each subject in high-top and low-top shoes. [...] RESULTS: The high-top shoes sig...
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over 7 years ago
Answer A: What to consider when shopping for prescription sunglasses?
I like the idea of glasses that change from sunglasses to indoor Photochromic lenses are a lot less useful than most people think when they hear about the concept. The main problem is that the change takes time - about a minute to darken and nearly five minutes to un-darken. That makes them basi...
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almost 8 years ago
Answer A: When do you need compensation training for bouldering?
The main problems caused by onesided training are reduced movement range, bad posture and lack of stability (which increases the risk of acute injuries). Anyone who has done any kind of intense sport knows how regular, harmless muscle soreness feels. You should worry when it doesn't go away or gets...
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about 8 years ago
Answer A: Can a human survive in Saltstraumen or other whirlpool?
It depends very much on the specific geography. But the idea of "whirlpools" that suck down people or entire ships, never to be seen again (which I suspect is what fascinates you) is largely a myth. The dangers aren't any different (and typically much smaller) than those posed by whitewater rapids in...
(more)
over 8 years ago
Answer A: How do I connect to an Autobelay with a Whillan's harness?
The only thing this 30+ years old piece of climbing history should be connected to is a fixture to mount it in a frame or display case.
(more)
over 8 years ago
Answer A: How do you treat frozen lungs?
First of all, stop strenuous activity. If possible, get back into a warmer environment. If not, breathe through your nose as much as possible. This can also be used as a preventative measure. Hydrate properly.
(more)
over 8 years ago
Answer A: What's the purpose of dog boots?
They protect the paws from injury or already injured paws from getting worse (and having bandages ripped off). Things they protect from include: rough terrain - sharp rocks, etc. chemicals like salt used for de-icing roads extreme cold ice balls forming between the dog's toes.
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over 8 years ago
Answer A: How to visually identify a rap hanger?
You shouldn't rappel directly off a hanger if any of these is true: The rope does not easily fit through the hole (with room to spare) The hole's edges are not smoothly rounded The material that forms the hole is much thinner than a carabiner Because all of these increase the change the rope will...
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over 8 years ago
Answer A: Is this anchor set up right?
I couldn't have come up with a better example of "how carabiners should never be used" if I tried! In fact, the most likely explanation for that picture is either such a deliberate bad example, or a joke. A quite likely incomplete list: Use of non-locking carabiners in an anchor - rightmost arro...
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over 8 years ago
Answer A: How to "spot" someone who is bouldering?
The job of a spotter is to prevent the climber from landing on their head and (if possible) ensure they land on their feet and on the crashpad. This may involve moving the crashpad (which should coincide with the climber having a secure hold or position. The job of a spotter is not to "catch" the cl...
(more)
over 8 years ago
Answer A: How much should your backpack weigh?
How many days is "multiple"? In what environment? Can you sleep out in the open or do you need a tent? Can you share the tent with other people? Do you need to bring all food? Water (then you're screwed)? All of this influences how low you can get the weight, but in general: the ideal weight is as h...
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over 8 years ago
Answer A: What are the odds that I stand a chance against Wild Boars?
do I stand a chance to pretend to be aggressive if they out-number me? Few of the civilians suggested that it works most of the times if they out-number you. They loose their formation and run away. This sounds like complete nonsense - boars do not have a "formation". They are not predators and...
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almost 9 years ago
Answer A: What's the best way to carry a dslr camera when rock-climbing?
I recently got the Mantona Elements, an interesting hybrid camera/trekking backpack: The lower part of the pack contains a small removable camera bag, while on top of it there's some space (not too much, though) for gear, food, clothes, etc. Alternatively, you can reconfigure it without the camera...
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almost 9 years ago
Answer A: What are Miner bees, and how do they differ from other bees?
The more common term is "mining bees". As the name says, they build nests underground, usually in sandy ground. The other big difference between them and regular honey bees, is that they are so-called solitary bees, so they do not form hives. The nest is built by a single female, who lays eggs in sev...
(more)
almost 9 years ago
Answer A: What sea life may be hazardous when rockpooling?
The blue-ringed octopuses (genus Hapalochlaena) are three (or perhaps four) octopus species that live in tide pools and coral reefs in the Pacific and Indian Oceans, from Japan to Australia (mainly around southern New South Wales and South Australia, and northern Western Australia). They are recog...
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almost 9 years ago
Answer A: Solo-backpacking in mountain lion country
The precautions are exaggerated. These animals are extremely reclusive. Adult humans are outside their prey schema and will be avoided except in extremely unusual circumstances. From Wikipedia: Fatal cougar attacks are extremely rare and occur much less frequently than fatal dog attacks, fatal ...
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about 9 years ago
Answer A: How to carry perishable foods on a multi-day trip, without it going rotten?
Well, you need to choose food which will keep that long without refrigeration (and, indeed, at the temperatures you expect, probably higher than normal room temperature), and you need watertight containers or packaging, either for individual portions or resealable (the jungle tends to be wet).
(more)
about 9 years ago
Answer A: Optimal use of available GPS devices when stranded
If you're not using the device to find your way, it is useless as far as the GPS functionality is concerned, no matter whether it's switched on or off. If I know they are looking for me, would they pick up the signal, if I switch it on for short periods every now and again? What signal? The GPS...
(more)
about 9 years ago
Answer A: How far would you need to fall for it to be fatal?
This doctor's blog claims that: The median height leading to death is about 49 feet (15 meters), or about 4 to 5 storeys. 100% of victims die after falling 85 feet (25 meters), or about 8 storeys. Obviously, the 100% figure is incorrect as there have been individual people who survived higher f...
(more)
about 9 years ago
Answer A: Climbing barefoot/in toe-shoes?
One thing is that I doubt it's possible to train the toes to have significant strength; unlike the fingers, they are simply not built for that job. And most of the time, you have a lot more weight on your feet than on your hands. Injury and strain would be a big problem. Then there's the sweating: t...
(more)
about 9 years ago
Answer A: Is climbing an ambidextrous sport?
Mostly yes. Right- or lefthandedness is generally about very fine coordination and timing, which are necessary for accurate throwing and hitting. Strenght and endurance may be affected because one arm is then favored. But the precision and timing of movements in climbing is much less critical. Usin...
(more)
about 9 years ago
Answer A: What is the term for/manufacturer of belay devices with a clip that holds the ATC onto the carabiner?
Hmmm... could it be that you mean the DMM Belay master? The main functions of the plastic clip are to ensure that the carabiner gate is screwed shut before it can be closed, and to prevent cross-loading of the carabiner.
(more)
about 9 years ago
Answer A: Top gear presenter pees on snare, why?
Well, urine has a strong smell, and rabbits are very sensitive to smells. Too sensitive, in fact - human urine will repel, not attract rabbits and is sometimes even suggested as a means to keep them out of gardens. Rabbit urine, on the other hand, could definitely work, there's a good chance that r...
(more)
about 9 years ago
Answer A: How to overcome mental hurdles of adventure trauma?
I think there have to be two parts to the answer: If you are in an immediately life-threatening situation where you have to act in order to survive, then the only thing that can save you when you are mentally shaken is training and routine. You can train dangerous situations in a safe environment so...
(more)
about 9 years ago
Answer A: How can I survive multiple days in cold environment?
Most importantly: be prepared. Always bring sufficient warm and waterproof clothing to make the worst possible weather for the area and time of year survivable. An emergency bivouac sack, a warm hat and gloves weigh very little, and can save your life. Also, something to start a fire (a lighter is...
(more)
over 9 years ago
Answer A: How to overcome the fear of falling in lead climbing
This is a very, very common problem, perhaps the most common limiting factor among all climbers. It may be worse for you than for most climbers, but at least you realize it and wish to adress it, so you have a better chance of overcoming it than someone who pretends there is no problem! First of all...
(more)
over 9 years ago
Answer A: Why are death percentages of death from trauma in an avalanche so different between USA, Europe, and Canada?
While it does not account for the difference between Canada and the USA, I'm pretty sure that one reason for the low numbers in Europe is that the latter has a lot of seasonal mountain pastures in active use, so livestock grazing keeps many slopes completely free of trees: In fact, the word "Alps"...
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over 9 years ago
Answer A: What this instrument is used for?
It's a self-belay device for rappelling that works just like a simple figure-eight, but there is a configuration where the lever on the left allows you to release yourself under load. It's meant for canyoning, so you can rappel down some distance before taking a plunge into a pool that's a bit furthe...
(more)
over 9 years ago
Answer A: What are the real dangers of climbing at high altitude?
As Liam has described, most problems are caused by the lack of oxygen which messes up all kinds of vital biological processes, and what exactly happens and how is still subject of (obviously difficult and dangerous) medical research. The most extreme form is the death zone above 7500 or 8000m (sourc...
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over 9 years ago
Answer A: How to begin in alpine tours
In my opinion the best would be to have a couple of more advanced friends who are able to teach or even know guides or groups and go with them for fun and to learn. Unfortunately I am not having this opportunity (yet?). How that, when you are already a member of the DAV? It is first and foremost...
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over 10 years ago
Answer A: Can the Swiss Alps be hiked in the winter?
That depends entirely on weather conditions and the paths you plan to take. If you stay on cleared roads, your Icetrekkers should be sufficient (and may not even be necessary). The main problem will be snow, not ice. Hiking paths will generally not be cleared of snow, so you'd need snowshoes or tour...
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over 10 years ago