Are there ways to make the skin on my fingers last longer while climbing/bouldering?
My main problem when bouldering and sometimes while climbing is, that after some time the skin/flesh of my middle and lower phalanges start to hurt and the skin comes off so further climbing becomes nearly impossible. The timespan until this happens differes and I can't see any progression over time or that bigger timespans between my climbing sessions would lead to better conditions. It seems to me that this isn't a problem of training, but of poor preparation/condition which lead to a bad form of the day for my fingers.
So my question would be, is there anything I can do between the days of climbing to strengthen and prepare my finger skin/flesh to make it last longer?
This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/18272. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.
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There are some things that can prevent the skin from tearing off and getting the so-called "flappers":
First, learn to control your center of gravity and your contact points with the wall so that you can make as many moves as possible statically:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfH_S2LTEXA
Because dynamic moves tend to result in stronger peak forces you need to absorb with your hands and your skin.
Second, avoid over-gripping large holds:
Overgripping results in more lateral forces on the skin of your fingers, which increases the chance of flappers.
This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/18275. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.
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