Is this anchor set up right?
I was just looking at an article about an expedition on Eiger.
I came across this picture.
Is this setup right?
For more info on the expedition: http://www.markseaton.com/stories/eiger.htm
Kudos to the team :)
This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/9795. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.
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I couldn't have come up with a better example of "how carabiners should never be used" if I tried!
In fact, the most likely explanation for that picture is either such a deliberate bad example, or a joke.
A quite likely incomplete list:
- Use of non-locking carabiners in an anchor - rightmost arrow shows a nut wire just waiting to slip through a wire gate
- cross-loading, so much cross-loading! The middle arrow shows the most egregious instance - crossloading straight across a wire gate. That drastically reduces the strength.
- metal on metal in a veritable daisy chain pattern (at the bottom there is a carabiner clipped into a carabiner, which itself is clipped into two other carabiners. This stuff can too easily lever itself open (or broken).
- The whole thing is a complete mess, visually as well as technically, increasing the chance for anyone who adds or removes equipment to do make dangerous mistakes.
- The sling going to the left (left arrow) indicates that the thing is loaded sideways as well as downwards - paving the way for those nuts to wiggle themselves loose.
- One of the screwgate carabiners isn't locked. From the picture it can't be seen whether it actually serves any (critical) purpose, but if in doubt it should be closed properly.
This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/9797. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.
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If it is load bearing, then hell no. This is a mess of cross- and ring-loading, which will break the biners.
If it is just a material storage placement, then it is simply confusing. And of what I know about the Eiger, when you find a good placement, you will never ever only use it for hanging up your gear, always for protection.
So all in all more information about the context would be needed to make a definitive answer, but I cannot imagine why this should be legit.
Edit: Unfortunately the pictures in the link given in the question are probably not in chronological order, so there is no information extractable about when or where this photo was taken.
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