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Q&A What to do when you run out of rope on a sports climb?

The situation is, that you started a high route with fixed protection (bolts) and misjudged its length, so before reaching the belay the middle mark of the rope passes the belayer. What can you do...

6 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

#2: Attribution notice added by user avatar System‭ · 2020-04-17T23:07:52Z (over 4 years ago)
Source: https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/9396
License name: CC BY-SA 3.0
License URL: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
#1: Initial revision by (deleted user) · 2020-04-17T23:07:51Z (over 4 years ago)
<p>The situation is, that you started a high route with fixed protection (bolts) and misjudged its length, so before reaching the belay the middle mark of the rope passes the belayer.</p>

<p>What can you do to descend safely leaving no or the least amount of gear behind?</p>

<p>You only have a single rope and there is no way to retrieve material from above or another route. I am looking for solutions as simple as possible, as you usually have only quickdraws and maybe a sling and a locker with you on such climbs, but feel free to state good possibilities with some additional gear, just try to minimise - thanks.</p>