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Q&A When clipping into quickdraws, is it dangerous to pass a finger through the gate?

When learning to sport climb, I was taught not to pass any of my fingers through the gate of the carabiner when clipping into a quickdraw. Lest any of my fingers get stuck and degloved in the case ...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Moormanly‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

#2: Attribution notice added by user avatar System‭ · 2020-04-17T22:46:18Z (over 4 years ago)
Source: https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/22988
License name: CC BY-SA 3.0
License URL: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
#1: Initial revision by user avatar Moormanly‭ · 2020-04-17T22:46:18Z (over 4 years ago)
<p>When learning to sport climb, I was taught not to pass any of my fingers through the gate of the carabiner when clipping into a quickdraw. Lest any of my fingers get stuck and degloved in the case of a fall while clipping. <strong>Has this ever happened? Is this a realistic concern?</strong></p>

<p><hr></p>

<p>In an effort to lead climb more efficiently, I was researching different methods of clipping quickdraws. During my search, I found that one often recommendation when clipping with (eg) one's right hand into a quickdraw whose gate is facing right is</p>

<blockquote>
  <h2>Pinch Clip Technique</h2>
  
  <ul>
  <li>Starting from your tie-in knot at your harness, slide your hand down the rope to grab a length of rope.</li>
  <li>As you bring the rope up to the quickdraw, let it run over your pointer finger.</li>
  <li>Use your thumb on the spine of the rope-end carabiner to stabilize the carabiner.</li>
  <li><strong>Push the rope and your pointer finger into and through the gate of the carabiner to clip the rope.</strong></li>
  </ul>
</blockquote>

<p><a href="https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/clip-quickdraws.html" rel="noreferrer">Source: REI</a>, emphasis: mine.</p>

<p><hr></p>

<p>Some sources warn against putting fingers through the gate while using the pinch clip technique:</p>

<blockquote>
  <h1>Quick safety tips when clipping quickdraws</h1>
  
  <h3>Keep your fingers out of the carabiner</h3>
  
  <p>Push the rope into the carabiner gate, rather than your fingers. You don’t want to lose them if the event of a fall!</p>
</blockquote>

<p><a href="https://mojagear.com/learn/2016/03/10/sport-climbing-tips-clipping/" rel="noreferrer">Source: Moja Gear</a></p>