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Q&A Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

Why do climbing professional use less than 5 fingers on some holds? From https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/ I mean, why don't they put the other fingers, even if they don't quite...

4 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Mathieu Krisztian‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

#2: Attribution notice added by user avatar System‭ · 2020-04-17T22:41:33Z (over 4 years ago)
Source: https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/22891
License name: CC BY-SA 3.0
License URL: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
#1: Initial revision by user avatar Mathieu Krisztian‭ · 2020-04-17T22:41:33Z (over 4 years ago)
<p>Why do climbing professional use less than 5 fingers on some holds?</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ca1sV.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ca1sV.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>From <a href="https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/" rel="noreferrer">https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/</a></p>

<p>I mean, why don't they put the other fingers, even if they don't quite fit, to reduce by a few grams the corresponding tension on the other fingers. Adding more fingers would reduce the global tension in the other fingers that are hardly used: why not?</p>