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I was recently doing a scramble route in North Wales. We needed to get past a large rock spike, though easy climbing, it was quite exposed and not a good place to take a fall. As a safety backup I ...
#2: Attribution notice added
by
System
·
2020-04-17T20:46:04Z (over 4 years ago)
Source: https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/9502 License name: CC BY-SA 3.0 License URL: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
#1: Initial revision
by
System
·
2020-04-17T20:46:04Z (over 4 years ago)
<p>I was recently doing a scramble route in North Wales. We needed to get past a large rock spike, though easy climbing, it was quite exposed and not a good place to take a fall. As a safety backup I attached a long dyneema sling over a large spike and clipped this directly onto my harness. This was more confidence protection than anything as the move was straight forward. </p> <p>We did this for speed, we did have a rope but didn't want to spend the time getting it out, etc. just to pass a relatively small section.</p> <p>It occurred to me afterwards though that maybe this wasn't such a great idea. There was nothing in the system to really absorb any impact. The fall onto the sling would have been minimal (maybe 1m).</p> <p>Are there any problems with attaching a sling directly onto your harness like this? We didn't use a crows foot or any other knot. Just a sling and one carabiner.</p> <p>Here's <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21RrJ_ISVx4" rel="nofollow">a video of my girlfriend doing the above for context</a></p>