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Q&A

What's the easiest to release, though solid, knot "on a bight"?

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I am practicing falls with a self belay device indoors and I am tying the rope to the anchors so to fall on a single strand of rope as I would in real life.

I used the figure eight on a bight but I searched for something easier to release after several falls. So I tried the bowline on a bight. Turned out, that knot is also a pain to release.

Is there anything faster to release, while still safe enough to take multiple falls on it?

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Have you heard about Ampersand Bowline (an enhanced-security bowline) ? Seems this knot is secure enough for such purpose (#1). And I think it may be easier to release than bowline on a bight.

#1 Caveat: need careful experiment with backup first.

Ampersand Bowline

Note: I found no practical data/report of this knot in climbing. It is a fairly new invention (2013/2014). Though there are discussions on how well it locks theoretically, and some tests on YouTube. A few references from the International Guild of Knot Tyers Forum:
https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=6193.msg41594#msg41594
https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=6226.msg41866#msg41866

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I would recommend using a double figure eight I always use this knot when tying off the end of the rope, it's stronger, safer, and it's easier to untie.

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If that doesn't work for you, then try a double-nine (double figure nine on a bight), it looks messy, but it comes loose real easy.

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