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Q&A

What's the easiest to release, though solid, knot "on a bight"?

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I am practicing falls with a self belay device indoors and I am tying the rope to the anchors so to fall on a single strand of rope as I would in real life.

I used the figure eight on a bight but I searched for something easier to release after several falls. So I tried the bowline on a bight. Turned out, that knot is also a pain to release.

Is there anything faster to release, while still safe enough to take multiple falls on it?

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2 answers

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I would recommend using a double figure eight I always use this knot when tying off the end of the rope, it's stronger, safer, and it's easier to untie.

enter image description here

If that doesn't work for you, then try a double-nine (double figure nine on a bight), it looks messy, but it comes loose real easy.

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Have you heard about Ampersand Bowline (an enhanced-security bowline) ? Seems this knot is secure enough for such purpose (#1). And I think it may be easier to release than bowline on a bight.

#1 Caveat: need careful experiment with backup first.

Ampersand Bowline

Note: I found no practical data/report of this knot in climbing. It is a fairly new invention (2013/2014). Though there are discussions on how well it locks theoretically, and some tests on YouTube. A few references from the International Guild of Knot Tyers Forum:
https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=6193.msg41594#msg41594
https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=6226.msg41866#msg41866

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