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Q&A

Posts tagged climbing

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Q&A How to use an avalanche shovel as a snow anchor for a belay?

Avalanche shovels come equipped with holes in the blades for use as rescue sleds and making anchors. I've got plenty of my own ideas, but I'm looking for any documentation provided by manufacturers...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What can I do with a retired rope and harness?

I've recently retired a rope (dynamic) and a harness. They're both in very good shape, but just over 8 years old. Common sense dictates I throw them away, but I wonder if there are other uses I can...

4 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by Roflo‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing with a much lighter partner?

Both my fiancee and myself bought some climbing gear recently and we're planning our first trip to an indoor rock gym this weekend. We decided to practice our knots and belay technique before we we...

3 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Blackbear‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to safely use reverso with ferrata harness?

Ferrata harnesses (FH) can be probably safely used also for climbing, as stated in another post. However, I am not sure how to use the reverso with FH. This is because in a usual FH, the belay ...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by jjrr‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What's the best way to swap lead when climbing in a group of three using a pair of half ropes?

On a multi-pitch route when all climbers have reached the belay point, what is the best way/what considerations need to be made, in order to swap lead? Obviously the leader will need to be tied int...

4 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by ldgorman‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I tie a double fisherman's knot?

In climbing, a double fisherman's knot is used to tie together two separate pieces of rope. How would I tie such a knot?

3 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Reverend Gonzo‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing ropes
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Q&A What is this belay/descender device called and how is it used?

Or may be it is an ascending device... There are two movable part, both on one axis. I tried searching about various descending devices, but I find mostly descriptions of Petzl things. This ma...

3 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Vi0‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb?

The guy who taught me to lead sport in the gym suggested that when I'm going for a clip, I position my body so that the clip is somewhere between my hips and my chest. He claimed it was a bad thing...

4 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to learn route setting?

I started setting routes in the small bouldering gym of our climbing club. I'm basically learning by doing this, so my approach is basically to try to think of some interesting moves, put up the ho...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by anderas‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is scientific relation between body weight and backpack weight in mountain climbing?

I am eager to go mountain climbing but cannot carry heavy backpacks because of my light weight. I want to know if there is any scientific equation to help me know how much weight is safe for me to ...

5 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by Persian Cat‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question climbing
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Q&A Gear for climbing a building

What gear do I need to climb buildings? Can I use a suction cup lifters? Or is it a safety risk, since this piece of equipment was clearly not developed to climb buildings?

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by Tom Kuczi‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question climbing
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Q&A How can I build a board to mount climbing holds in my house?

I want to screw a board in my house to mount indoor climbing holds, like an indoor wall. so a piece of board with evenly spaced screw holes in it that accept the standard screw mounts for climbing ...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question diy climbing training
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Q&A Whats the best way to abseil off a ledge with the anchor at foot level?

Is there any method for making the initial stages of an abseil smoother when the anchor in use is at foot level and the ledge drops off abruptly. I have had a big swing before when trying to do thi...

2 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by ldgorman‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question climbing rappelling
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Q&A (Why) Should I hold the rope when belaying the second climber with Reverso?

When climbing a multi-pitch route, suppose I am belaying the second climber, using Reverso or a similar device. It lets me arrange the rope in such a way that when the climber falls, the rope auto...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What Suction Cups Were Used To Climb Trump Tower?

There is a video here. Basically I won't say I'm planning to do the same thing but would like to find out more behind how he did it. Someone told me the suction cups were intended for construct...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by William‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question climbing
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Q&A How safe is a chest harness when used without a sit harness?

How safe is it to use a chest harness without a sit harness? I ask this question because of an experience I had while on holiday. A couple of years ago I was in China and hiked/climbed HuaShan (se...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by S. Catterall Reinstate Monica‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question climbing safety
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Q&A What is an equalette anchor?

When setting up belay there are many ways to connect the anchors. One way is called equalette and is supposed to adapt to a certain extent to the direction of pull. How is such an equalette constr...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is this anchor set up right?

I was just looking at an article about an expedition on Eiger. I came across this picture. Is this setup right? For more info on the expedition: http://www.markseaton.com/stories/eiger.htm Ku...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Extending a two bolt anchor with one sling?

I took some kids out climbing last night at a small crag popular for top roping, but I wasn't too impressed with their choice of anchor placements, or lack of additional hardware considering their ...

5 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A When a knot unties because the tail is too short

Is there a technical term that refers to a knot untying under load because the tail was too short?

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by dinosaur‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Difference when using twin or half ropes

There are three types of ropes according to the UIAA/EN norm for climbing ropes: Single, half and twin. While the distinction between single ropes and the other two is rather obvious (one strand ve...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question gear climbing ropes
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Q&A What hand and finger exercises help with climbing?

It's been a while since I went rock climbing but I'd like to get back into it. What are some hand exercises that will help with climbing?

9 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Kevin‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question climbing exercises
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Q&A Difficulty belaying with a Gri Gri

I'm having some trouble with my Gri-gri. It seems to keep "jamming" when feeding out rope. It's causing me so much trouble I've basically stopped using it and gone back to a good old fashined belay...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the correct way to attach a rope to a harness with carabiners?

So you know how when you're belaying you clip in to the belaying loop, and when your climbing you tie in to the two loops the belay loop is stiched through... When you're climbing, what part would ...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Tyson‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question climbing ropes safety
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Q&A Rapelling an overhang

How do you bypass the overhang, mid-rappel? --. <-- Start of rappel | | __| <-- Overhang | | Do you go to your knees and then step one foot over at a time trying not to squash yo...

5 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Adam Terlson‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I get cam slings replaced?

I bought my first set of cams and I've been curious about what happens when the slings start to wear out. Are they user-replaceable? The ones I purchased seem to be very un-user-replaceable: How...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Chris Mendez‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Ideal and Minimal Rope Diameter for Lead Climbing

I'm thinking of a single rope that it's safe to take long lead falls, but also light to carry around. I weight 75 kg and I might climb with heavier partners (80-90 kg)

3 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by Miguel Madero‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing rope is rated to X UIAA falls. What is a UIAA fall?

When looking at buying climbing ropes, they are rated to a number of "UIAA falls". What does that mean?

2 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Reverend Gonzo‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question climbing ropes
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Q&A How to avoid tangling up the rope when throwing it before rappelling?

When we rappel after a multi-pitch climb, we usually take up the rope (or both ropes when we use half ropes) so that we end up with one or two nicely lap-coiled ropes. Throwing the coiled ropes q...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by anderas‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Explanation of aid climbing grades

There is already the question Please Explain Rock Climbing Grades however I would like to know about aiding grades. StrongBad's answer to an aid/trad question mentions A0 and C1 grades. Are these t...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?

Recently I saw an arborist climbing up a single rope with an unbelievable speed, as if it was just a ladder. Of course he was using all kinds of specialized gear including foot/chest ascenders and ...

7 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by flawr‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing wall on private home

I'm just curious how feasible it is to install a rock climbing wall on the side of a regular, balloon framed house (modern standard in the U.S. and Canada). Would something like that require constr...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by amphibient‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How dangerous is it to climb a via ferrata alone?

What are the risks of climbing a via ferrata alone? Would going through very easy via ferratas still pose high risks? Are well visited and easy climbing via ferratas necessarily a great danger? I...

4 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Pierre B‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the wall-cleaners in climbing called? What equipment/gear do they use?

I have been watching this climbing video of Alex Honnold. In this video his friend goes ahead of him and cleans the wall of any debris or slippery rocks. What are these people who clean the walls...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Dawny33‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Do essential oils damage climbing ropes?

I have an all natural bug spray that uses distilled water and a combination of four essential oils, and NOT containing DEET. If I spray it on my body and clothing before climbing will these essenti...

0 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by charlene‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question gear climbing ropes
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Q&A Using a Girth Hitch in Alpine Draws

I've recently started making my alpine (or "trad") draws by girth hitching one end of a sling to the gear side carabiner and then clipping and passing the rope side through as usual. The girth hitc...

4 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by crasic‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to abseil without a descender device?

Lets assume I am abseiling multiple pitches with some tuber device and at some point at a belay I dropped the device. How do I improvise something that does the braking while descending? I still ha...

0 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I prevent myself from getting pumped when climbing?

Usually when I climb I take plenty of rest between attempts however, yesterday I decided that I wanted to test myself and climb 25 problems at my local gym. I chose problems that were below my leve...

4 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Dzhao‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question climbing bouldering
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Q&A When do you need compensation training for bouldering?

Not only, but mainly while bouldering you are likely to push hard moves and strain your body onesided. As a consequence you can pain your muscles, ribbons or tendons. But... How do I know if the ...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to safely train for and grip pockets?

I was spurred to post this after reading Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing? Last year I injured myself training on a shallow three finger pocket with an open hand grip...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How safe are stoppers/rocks when threaded through rock tunnels?

Last year, I learned that you could thread the wire of stoppers/rocks/hexentrics through tunnels in the rock if threading cord or a sling through them would be too difficult. As a reference, see th...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by anderas‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?

I see people doing this a lot: My question is: Why? When is it necessary to double up locking carabiners? Ever? Doubling up non-locking carabiners with opposite and opposing gates was, and sti...

3 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the advantages / disadvantages of a rock climbing hat made from hard plastic to one made out of carbon fiber?

What are the advantages / disadvantages of a rock climbing hat made from hard plastic to one made out of carbon fibre? I have done a Google search already, but wanted some pointers with people who...

2 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Aim Kai‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Will glucosamine and chondroitin sulphate prevent or repair damage to climbers&#x2019; fingers?

I've heard that I can take glucosamine and chondroitin sulphate supplements to prevent damage to my fingers when I'm climbing. Is it true, or is just an old wives' tale?

0 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Reverend Gonzo‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question climbing health
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Q&A Will glucosamine and chondroitin sulphate prevent or repair damage to climbers’ fingers?

I've heard that I can take glucosamine and chondroitin sulphate supplements to prevent damage to my fingers when I'm climbing. Is it true, or is just an old wives' tale?

3 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Reverend Gonzo‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question climbing health
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Q&A Efficient technique for handling trad gear?

I have been practicing trad climbing and I've run into some difficulty managing and handling the gear. Specifically, I'm awkwardly taking cams off my gear loops, fiddling with them, and finally pla...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by Chris Mendez‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?

Everyone knows an undercammed piece is bad. Does any data exist on how bad it gets? In other words, how does the strength of a cam placement change with the retraction angle?

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by Felix‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Cam Sling Modification

How do you modify Cam slings with a straw as described here for easier removal?

2 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Russell Steen‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Criterions in multi-pitch climbing to be considered a free ascent

How free climbing compares to other styles of climbing is well explained in the question Bouldering vs aid climbing vs free climbing vs free solo climbing and more specifics are given in What does ...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do you grade a bouldering problem?

How would someone grade a bouldering problem they've created? What would one have to look out for when grading? When bouldering, does a highball mean a more difficult grading?

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by Beta Decay‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭