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Activity for Nickā€­

Type On... Excerpt Status Date
Edit Post #40453 Initial revision over 4 years ago
Question Site with statistics of mountaineering accidents
I was wondering if there was a website where I could find the different kinds of statistics of accidents in the mountains. I know that Dragon 06 (rescue service of Alpes-Maritimes) posted some numbers online in 2008. But I'm looking for more recent figures. The data that I'm looking for includes: ...
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almost 10 years ago
Answer A: How to safely mark a rope
I use a figure-eight loop. Fairly easy to remove when you need to. Also gives the possibility to descend on one or two ends of the rope if the middle is brought to your anchor. Edit1: Of course not to permanently damage your core, it is advised to regularly (eg after each trip) take out the knot. T...
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over 10 years ago
Question How much is a major load?
So the UIAA sets a major fall (fall after which to retire your gear) to be a fall factor of 1.77. Now I was wondering what would count as a major load (load after which to retire your gear) ? 50 kN ? More? Less ? In the petzl document "tips for protecting your equipment" they don't seem to make a d...
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over 10 years ago
Question Major fall, same for static and dynamic?
The UIAA says that you should retire your gear after a major fall is a fall with fall factor > 1.77. Now I was wondering if this criterion is the same for all kinds of material ? Dynamic ropes Semi-dynamic ropes Static ropes (or slings) Your metal gear I've read the tips for protecting your equi...
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over 10 years ago
Answer A: How do climbers retrieve anchored rope?
I'd like to make an addition to the answer by @RoryAlsop. Namely the case where only ONE end of the rope is used. Next to descending on both rope-ends at the same time, it's also possible to do it only on one end. This is for example done if you have very technical rappels where you need to use extr...
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over 10 years ago
Answer A: What is a bloquers?
It's what @imsodin said. Bloqueur is the french term for "blocker" in English. So when I talk about a bloqueur, I'm talking about blocking devices. The two that I use for ascending a rope are the Petzl basic and Petzl croll. The use of French terms is a habit that I picked up from canyoning, which i...
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over 10 years ago
Answer A: How to arrange 2 Prusiks when ascending a rope?
I always ascend the other way around (foot-prusik above the chest prusik). This allows for a bigger movement with your foot and hence a bigger climb during your ascend. Note: I actually use bloqueurs, but basically the methods should remain the same.
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over 10 years ago
Question Good canyon (or canyoning) websites
I was wondering if you guys knew about some good websites to find canyons on with the necessary information ? Necessary information being: Longest abseil French level (V.A.I.) Wether the canyon is open/closed The entrance of the canyon and the exit of the canyon The sensitivity to weatherconditions...
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over 10 years ago
Question Semi-static rope 24 hour rule
It is said that a semi-static rope should be submerged for 24 hours before first use. Why is this, and is this before every first use ?
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over 10 years ago