Activity for ldgorman‭

Type	On...	Excerpt	Status	Date
Edit	Post #40524	Initial revision	—	about 4 years ago
Answer	—	A: How hard is the East Buttress route on El Capitan The off width pitch would mean that a bouldering grade is just not applicable. The difficulty of a multipitch free climb should not be assessed in just the difficulty of the climbing but also in the difficulty to place protection, the length and the level of sustained difficulty. No you cannot c... (more)	—	over 4 years ago
Answer	—	A: Buying Campingaz in Eastern Europe Your bottle will just contain LPG. The problem you may have is the connector for filling up. This is non standard across countries and so you may require an adapter. adapters: https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/gas-cylinder-adapter.html stations in romania: https://www.mylpg.eu/stations/romania/ ho... (more)	—	over 5 years ago
Question	—	Is it possible to repair this flat bow? Is there hope for a repair on this bow? Samick Outlander American flat bow. (more)	—	almost 6 years ago
Question	—	Crevasse rescue with knots in the rope This has been bugging me for a while. A party is traveling on a glacier and adds braking knots evenly to the length of the rope as seen in this answer. The person leading the rope falls into a crevasse and the knots do not stop the fall. How does the rest of the team pull the leader out given that t... (more)	—	about 6 years ago
Question	—	Should one remove their boots in an emergency bivvy situation? Is there an argument for removing your boots to prevent frostbitten toes. Lets say you are at 4000m in the winter in a snow cave with no sleeping bag and frostbite is probable, but death is unlikely. I'm guessing that if there was a benefit to removing the boots, it would be from increased circulat... (more)	—	almost 7 years ago
Answer	—	A: Have the climbing signals "take" and "safe" every been confused to the point of an accident? Yes! My friend Wendy was belaying my friend Jake on the classic trad route Cemetery Gates. I think it was the first pitch. He was around 30m into the pitch and was having a hard time. He'd not moved for a while and shouted down something. Wendy took this to mean safe and started unscrewing the kara... (more)	—	about 7 years ago
Answer	—	A: How to prevent an autoblock knot from twisting? Firstly... your picture features a french prusik or autoblock knot. BUT it's a badly tied one. There are 3 parts of the knot: 2 tails plus the length of the wraps. These 3 parts NEED to make an equilateral triangle. The knot will probably still work if this is not the case, but the knot is optimal... (more)	—	about 7 years ago
Question	—	Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue? Imagine the situation. You are somewhere in the montblanc massif crossing a glacier and you come across a pair of climbers. You/ I are well trained in crevasse rescue, but are not a certified guide. One of the pair has fallen into a crevasse but is conscious, and is being supported by his partner i... (more)	—	about 7 years ago
Answer	—	A: Are Oxygen shortages possible in closed bivouacs? If you put a plastic back over your head, you are going to suffocate. A good bivvy bag should be designed such that suffocation is not an issue. However, breathing into a bivvy bag is a terrible idea because the vapour in your breath will condense and make you wet. Make this question a non issue by ... (more)	—	about 7 years ago
Question	—	How best to arrange a rope that you intend to sleep on top of Recently i was forced to take a long nap in a particular set of toilets at the top of a particular peak after missing the last bin down. I had no bivvy gear, but the toilets were heated and i was able to sleep reasonably well. I sprawled out my rope on the floor and slept on top of it. I'm interes... (more)	—	over 7 years ago
Question	—	Relative abraision resistance of Dyneema slings vs an average dynamic climbing rope I recently read this answer about rope thickness, and it mentions a tragic incident where a rope was severed during a lead fall due to the rope being dragged across rock edge whilst under tension. It got me thinking. If the sling was the component being dragged across the rock edge, would it hold o... (more)	—	about 9 years ago
Question	—	Using anti-perspirant in extreme cold climate Could the use of anti-perspirant give benefit in extreme cold climate where sweating can be a significant problem. I've read many articles regarding keeping warm when alpine climbing in the extreme cold of winter in say, the alps. Commonly, sweating is described as being potentially dangerous, and i... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: How to use a poncho in high winds? I've seen people wear ponchos with a belt around the midriff, it looks cool. Ultimately it's probably not the best garment in high wind. You could try sewing in elastic draw cords. (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Question	—	How to achieve a climbing anchor that can withstand an upward load? Commonly when setting SARENE-SA trad anchors on multi pitch routes the only protection available are nuts/wires. Additionally, there is very rarely an option to place a nut to protect against an upward force. I understand the importance of the anchor being able to withstand an upward force, such as... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb? negative points to consider when clipping way above your head as opposed to clipping around chest height: you have to drag out a load more rope, which will slow you down, wasting energy the rope may be running over/ in the way of your next hold extending your arm to its maximum length and doing wor... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago
Question	—	Whats the best way to abseil off a ledge with the anchor at foot level? Is there any method for making the initial stages of an abseil smoother when the anchor in use is at foot level and the ledge drops off abruptly. I have had a big swing before when trying to do this and found it quite unpleasant. (more)	—	almost 11 years ago
Question	—	What's the best way to swap lead when climbing in a group of three using a pair of half ropes? On a multi-pitch route when all climbers have reached the belay point, what is the best way/what considerations need to be made, in order to swap lead? Obviously the leader will need to be tied into both ropes, but the second will be tied into only one. Update: I appreciate the answer to this ques... (more)	—	almost 11 years ago
Question	—	What to do with the lap coiled rope if the belayer wishes to lead consecutive pitches? Imagine a multi-pitch climbing situation where a lead climber has just finished belaying the second from a hanging belay position. The rope is coiled over the anchor cord (or clove hitched sharp end). If the same climber wishes to lead the next pitch as well, what is the best way to swap positions wi... (more)	—	almost 11 years ago