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Posts by Mr.Wizard‭

87 posts
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Q&A How can you tie a clove hitch one handed?

I found several videos showing a one-handed clove-hitch without clipping, as I think you want: https://youtu.be/os_tQdhLI9Y?t=200 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8qSoIY6FPc https://www.youtube....

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Techniques for handling pumped arms?

(Hopefully this doesn't apply to you but I think it is a needed reference.) Anyone suffering from unusual or extreme "pump" needs to be aware of functional compartment syndrome, also known as chr...

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A How to train climbing endurance at home?

Full body weight hangboard training or pull-ups are way too intense for me to build or maintain route endurance. To extend the time under tension to the length experienced on a route and to practi...

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Can I fall out of my sit harness?

You certainly can, if the waist belt isn't high enough and tight enough. A few years ago I briefly worked at a small rock wall where among other duties I belayed and showed people how to put on a ...

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Deodorising rain jacket without ruining waterproofing

I recommend you try Gear Aid MiraZyme. It is formulated specifically to remove odors and it is safe for your waterproofing. It does not require you to wash your garmet harshly; instead you dip yo...

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A How can I tell a &#x201C;trail shoe&#x201D; from a regular sport shoe?

As you can see from the existing answers there is no consensus on this. Something may be "a trail shoe" simply because marketing says so. More pragmatically if someone successfully wears a shoe o...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Do tent colors have functional purposes?

I have a Marmot tent and those were my color choices. I chose the brighter one as I thought it would be useful if I were lost and needed visibility, either lost from my own campsite or in need of r...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A How to get kinks and twists out of a climbing rope?

Avoid the problem with a better solution Avoiding the twisting in the first place surely is best, and there is a simple way to do that: This is the Super Munter, Monster Munter, or Double Mun...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A What respirator should I get for urbex?

I am not an "urban explorer" but in other uses I have never found the simple fiber masks like ShemSeger pictures to seal well enough to be much good. It doesn't matter how good the filter material...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Bouldering beside the freeway

I have no special knowledge of this subject but it is my understanding that rock cut by blasting fractures deeply, beyond the part that is removed, and that as a result climbing on such rock is typ...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A What accreditations should a professional rock climbing cams reslinger have?

There is a UIAA certification for slings just as is there are for (nearly?) all critical recreational climbing gear. You should only have reslinging done by a company that produces UIAA certified ...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A How to safely train for and grip pockets?

I was spurred to post this after reading Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing? Last year I injured myself training on a shallow three finger pocket with an open hand grip...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?

Something that occurred to me after asking is that a Prusik is bidirectional, whereas generally the arborist's knots are unidirectional. I believe the unidirectional knots are easier to both slide...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A What is the difference between "dry rope", "non-dry rope" and "dry core rope"?

This question has already been well answered but I would like to address a slightly different point: What's the problem with a wet rope anyway? Dynamic climbing ropes are, to the best of my knowl...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?

It seems that the majority of professional arborists favor friction hitches that are tied with a free cord rather than a loop: Blake's Hitch Schwabisch Distel Valdotain Tresse This is often tie...

3 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?

A number of prominent climbing organizations (e.g. International Federation of Sport Climbing) either recommend or require two locking carabiners for clip-in attachment to a harness, e.g. IFSC Ru...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to take care of climbing hands?

For the most important kind of care of your hands please read: Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated? For skin care specifically: I am not hard on my skin, climbing mostly on w...

posted 9y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is a "shooting jacket"?

According to: Competition Shooting 101: CMP/NRA High Power By Nick Leghorn on April 21, 2011 Shooting Jacket – This is another tool for keeping you steady. While standing or sitting, having an...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Permanent Camping Cooler - No Ice Needed

Although technology has brought us many conveniences most of them require supporting power or other technology. You seem set on refrigeration and you say: "I am willing to go to just about any ext...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are creative uses for retired carabiners?

This is probably going to be an unpopular opinion because it's not nearly as "feel good" as helping remote Asian herdsmen. (Which incidentally is probably one of few exceptions to what follows.) ...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A What rope to chose to hold my body weight from a monkey fist knot

As Ben Crowell already noted you are not going to be taxing a rope very much in this application, and unless you are planning acrobatic moves off of these holds (which you very well may be) there ...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Wood versus plastic trail signs?

My only experience with this is as a hiker, and I can only give my own opinion. But first: Examples In the Columbia River Gorge there are a few different types of signage used. Major road-side...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb?

The pragmatic answer has already been given, but in my own words: Clip from the most solid stance available Clip with your harness as close to the rope-end carabiner as possible Sometimes the old...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do you stop blood-flow from a leech bite?

I have heard that if you do not remove the leech until it gets full and naturally drops off that you will not bleed much, and that it is safer because you reduce the risk of infection. At the mome...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A "Used" top rope when bouldering

With due respect to Ben Crowell, who is I believe a far more experienced outdoorsman than I am, I beg to differ with his answer. (Edit: his answer prior to revision.) Having worked at a very smal...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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