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Posts by Mr.Wizard‭

87 posts
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Q&A Is there an accepted way to self-belay on top rope?

You should not use a toothed ascender as a fall can sever the rope. Additionally these devices are typically not usable for decent therefore additional equipment is required anyway. Section 6 of ...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

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Q&A What accreditations should a professional rock climbing cams reslinger have?

There is a UIAA certification for slings just as is there are for (nearly?) all critical recreational climbing gear. You should only have reslinging done by a company that produces UIAA certified ...

posted 9y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?

Something that occurred to me after asking is that a Prusik is bidirectional, whereas generally the arborist's knots are unidirectional. I believe the unidirectional knots are easier to both slide...

posted 9y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A What is the difference between "dry rope", "non-dry rope" and "dry core rope"?

This question has already been well answered but I would like to address a slightly different point: What's the problem with a wet rope anyway? Dynamic climbing ropes are, to the best of my knowl...

posted 9y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?

It seems that the majority of professional arborists favor friction hitches that are tied with a free cord rather than a loop: Blake's Hitch Schwabisch Distel Valdotain Tresse This is often tie...

3 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated?

Rather than try to answer the personal part of your question, which as Liam said needs a doctor's attention to answer properly, I shall reply to the more general title: Can a Finger Pulley injury ...

posted 11y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 11y ago by System‭

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Q&A What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik

I am going to approach this question differently. Since the question is marked with the rock-climbing tag the use of a 7.5mm Technora escape rope that AM_Hawk's answer focuses on seems unlikely. ...

posted 11y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Methods for taping hands, wrists, and fingers for climbing?

I am only familiar with a couple but I wouldn't be surprised if there are many more for certain injuries or specific applications (e.g. ankle taping for off-widths). Crack climbing For crack clim...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Where can I get Tyvek maps?

I'd like to get some Tyvek maps, both topographical maps and regular street maps of a few U.S. cities. Where can I get these?

2 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question maps tyvek
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Q&A Why don't we apply the principles of layering when it comes to pants?

I'm not sure why pants don't receive the same attention but the layers are available. You can easily find base, insulating, and shell layers. Olin's answer gives some good reasons layering pant...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

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Q&A Performance of fur garments?

How does the performance of genuine fur garments, as might have been used traditionally, compare to that of down and modern synthetics? (Insulating power (wet and dry), water repellency, and any ...

1 answer  ·  posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

Question clothing
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Q&A Rain pants for tall people

There are several size small 32-inch inseam rain pants listed on REI.com so that should at least get you close. If you prefer a 34-inch inseam the closest I have yet found is this REI pant in mediu...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

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Q&A Ideal and Minimal Rope Diameter for Lead Climbing

Failure by cutting is a primary concern In terms of safety (rather than e.g. rope life) laboratory (UIAA) fall testing may not be the most important concern. Even a new, thick rope can be cut in ...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A What type of knife should I carry while rock climbing?

The Camillus Rescue Heat is nice, if you can find one. The link above is to a video review on YouTube. It covers things pretty well, but my own summary: Non-stabbing thick blunt tip is useful f...

posted 13y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

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Q&A How much vertical distance is it possible to make in a day?

Figure how much this guy covers in a day: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Vx7GKAUDC0 :-) Here's one I didn't know about until today: Alex Honnold solos Mt. Watkins, El Capitan, and Half Dome in ...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there a consensus or ethic for rappelling off a tree?

I think if you're seeing damage your concern is valid. I do recall reading that soil compaction is the bigger problem and different rigging won't help that. You could use a "friction saver" as sh...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Using a Girth Hitch in Alpine Draws

The knot reduced the runner rating in half, but since there are two strands , its back to the UIAA standard of 22KN ... The 22kN rating is for the loop strength of the sling, not the single-...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is Geocaching?

There are questions on this site tagged geocaching. This appears to be some kind of GPS game. How is it played?

2 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to minimise erosion damage to footpaths when walking?

I have no direct evidence to support this, but I believe that wearing minimalistic shoes like moccasins or Vibram toe shoes reduces trail damage, as does learning to walk and run barefoot. Soft-so...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Why do some knives have one-sided sharpening?

Serrations are formed on one side due to the method of manufacture (a formed grinding wheel). I suppose it would be possible to grind serrations from both sides with very careful alignment but I c...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Cam Sling Modification

From Simple Mechanics: Why Tricams Still Rule (PDF): Stiffen the Sling One way to help make Tricams easier to place and remove is to stiffen the upper part the slings. Over the course o...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A How should I wash Ventile clothing?

From ventile.co.uk: Ventile can be either dry-cleaned as detailed below or hand washed using Grangers 30 Degree Cleaner Professional dry-cleaning in: perchloroethylene, hydrocarbons. ...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Surviving a forest fire by starting another fire

This does have a basis in a known technique, back burning, but by your description the application wasn't orthodox. From Wikipedia: Back burning is a way of reducing the amount of flammable ma...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Turkey Broadheads

OutdoorLife.com says: You wouldn’t think by looking at a turkey that they would present much of a challenge. After all, they’re just a pile of feathers and a few pounds of meat, right? Wron...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there a kayak / paddleboard for large people?

I think a sit-on-top tandem kayak might work; something like this: The open design means there is no cramped compartment to fit into. This particular tandem claims a capacity of 500 pounds. I ...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

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