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Posts by Mr.Wizard‭

87 posts
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Q&A What are creative uses for retired carabiners?

This is probably going to be an unpopular opinion because it's not nearly as "feel good" as helping remote Asian herdsmen. (Which incidentally is probably one of few exceptions to what follows.) ...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How can you tie a clove hitch one handed?

I found several videos showing a one-handed clove-hitch without clipping, as I think you want: https://youtu.be/os_tQdhLI9Y?t=200 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8qSoIY6FPc https://www.youtube....

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Techniques for handling pumped arms?

(Hopefully this doesn't apply to you but I think it is a needed reference.) Anyone suffering from unusual or extreme "pump" needs to be aware of functional compartment syndrome, also known as chr...

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A How to train climbing endurance at home?

Full body weight hangboard training or pull-ups are way too intense for me to build or maintain route endurance. To extend the time under tension to the length experienced on a route and to practi...

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Can I fall out of my sit harness?

You certainly can, if the waist belt isn't high enough and tight enough. A few years ago I briefly worked at a small rock wall where among other duties I belayed and showed people how to put on a ...

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Deodorising rain jacket without ruining waterproofing

I recommend you try Gear Aid MiraZyme. It is formulated specifically to remove odors and it is safe for your waterproofing. It does not require you to wash your garmet harshly; instead you dip yo...

posted 7y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A How can I tell a &#x201C;trail shoe&#x201D; from a regular sport shoe?

As you can see from the existing answers there is no consensus on this. Something may be "a trail shoe" simply because marketing says so. More pragmatically if someone successfully wears a shoe o...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Do tent colors have functional purposes?

I have a Marmot tent and those were my color choices. I chose the brighter one as I thought it would be useful if I were lost and needed visibility, either lost from my own campsite or in need of r...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A What respirator should I get for urbex?

I am not an "urban explorer" but in other uses I have never found the simple fiber masks like ShemSeger pictures to seal well enough to be much good. It doesn't matter how good the filter material...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Bouldering beside the freeway

I have no special knowledge of this subject but it is my understanding that rock cut by blasting fractures deeply, beyond the part that is removed, and that as a result climbing on such rock is typ...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A What accreditations should a professional rock climbing cams reslinger have?

There is a UIAA certification for slings just as is there are for (nearly?) all critical recreational climbing gear. You should only have reslinging done by a company that produces UIAA certified ...

posted 8y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A How to take care of climbing hands?

For the most important kind of care of your hands please read: Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated? For skin care specifically: I am not hard on my skin, climbing mostly on w...

posted 9y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Permanent Camping Cooler - No Ice Needed

Although technology has brought us many conveniences most of them require supporting power or other technology. You seem set on refrigeration and you say: "I am willing to go to just about any ext...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I correctly clean (remove) Tri-Cams?

Tri-Cams have a reputation for fitting where other protection will not, and they are light weight and inexpensive compared to SLCDs. Unfortunately they also have a reputation for being hard to cle...

1 answer  ·  posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

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Q&A What rope to chose to hold my body weight from a monkey fist knot

As Ben Crowell already noted you are not going to be taxing a rope very much in this application, and unless you are planning acrobatic moves off of these holds (which you very well may be) there ...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Wood versus plastic trail signs?

My only experience with this is as a hiker, and I can only give my own opinion. But first: Examples In the Columbia River Gorge there are a few different types of signage used. Major road-side...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb?

The pragmatic answer has already been given, but in my own words: Clip from the most solid stance available Clip with your harness as close to the rope-end carabiner as possible Sometimes the old...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do you stop blood-flow from a leech bite?

I have heard that if you do not remove the leech until it gets full and naturally drops off that you will not bleed much, and that it is safer because you reduce the risk of infection. At the mome...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is saltwater antiseptic?

No, seawater cannot be considered antiseptic. At minimum, Staphylococcus, which is the cause of many serious infections and deaths every year, and one agent of necrotizing fasciitis, is "able to s...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A Technique and physical conditioning for crack climbing

Update 2019: video links and PDF links fixed, and new 2019 video added. Please let me know via comment if the links break again. I don't have a lot of experience with cracks myself (I refuse to...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the benefits of Vibram FiveFingers?

Ben Crowell already answered the "why minimalist" angle better than I could have, but he didn't specifically talk about Vibram FiveFingers (hereafter VFF). This is intended to complement his answe...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing with a much lighter partner?

Alright, there are several different issues here that we must be sure to address. I'll give you my thoughts on each of them. As before I recommend receiving in-person instruction as there may be ...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated?

Rather than try to answer the personal part of your question, which as Liam said needs a doctor's attention to answer properly, I shall reply to the more general title: Can a Finger Pulley injury ...

posted 10y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to safely carry a fixed-blade knife?

If your primary concern is "a knife I can quickly get out with just one hand" then you may want to look at better folding knives instead. A modern folding knife should not be difficult to open wit...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭

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Q&A How do you safely cut wood with a knife?

You really want a saw or camp axe for this purpose, but if using a knife you want one without serrations. Serrations are not a replacement for a saw. A saw cuts a kerf wider than the blade itself...

posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 12y ago by System‭

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