Posts by QuantumBrick
The answer is in this video: https://youtu.be/seCiupa4I6U?t=1m2s I'm not sure if it's the same traverse as the OP posted, but I'd bet on it. The thing that looks like a biner between the columns i...
The figure-8 knot is characteristically hard to untie after falls. What many climbers do is, once the knot is done, to come back with the end of the rope inside the last bight - this is a sort of Y...
Everyone who has taught climbing for a while has noticed that women are better beginner climbers than men, mostly because they're lighter, have smaller hands (so can grab smaller holds more comfort...
I just got a sample of Petzl's new assisted braking device, the Grigri+. I must admit I look at it with a lot of disdain, mostly because It's bulkier than the Grigri 2; It's heavier than the Grig...
I have read some posts here regarding the expiration dates of climbing material, especially trad gear. Friends and nuts (as all climbing equipment) have a lifespan of 10 years according to all manu...
Would you start playing the clarinet on a bus? It's also noisy, somehow. People also wouldn't expect complete silence. Would you be the one to guarantee there is no possibility of silence at all? ...
Imagine two strings of different densities, which are tied together at a point. Suppose you hit the string with the largest density several times with your hand, generating a sequence of traveling ...
Every time a climber finds a way to place more fingers on a hold, he/she will. If he/she is not using all fingers, it's because: They're training their fingers to get stronger, It's impossible t...
I have used the Mammut Smart Alpine with many biners, including the GridLock. My impression is that, while the Smart does have the tendency to get caught and stuck when the rope runs over the lock ...
Ascending a fixed rope using an ATC guide in lead mode is totally valid, but it is not the "quickest" method (IMHO). Usually what is taught in basic climbing and self rescue courses is to ascend wi...
It's a matter of practice, but also a matter of feel: When stepping with the front of your foot you have a smaller contact area, so the pressure is higher than using the whole foot. This increases ...
Although the question asks specifically about high altitude camps, my answer is about camps high on a wall, i.e. on big walls, because that's all I know. I also believe portaledge camps are unbelie...
If you can get to the person, a rescue operation is 90% done. A danger zone is a danger zone because spotting someone is often impossible, let alone getting near them. I never heard of anyone pass...
No. An industrial shock absorber cannot be used as a via ferrata set, because: Via ferrata sets are intended to absorb falls that exceed a person's height. EN 355 (industrial absorbers) mentions ...
Adding weight is an extremely efficient way to strengthen core, leg and back muscles - and also your fingers, depending on what kind of training you are doing. I have been training with extra weigh...
You can tie in using a Bowline on a bight; Figure 8 knot on a bight; Overhand knot; Then attaching one or two opposing locking carabiners to the loop of your harness. You should never: Attac...
I can only answer from my personal perspective. It might not be statistically relevant, but I dare say it could be a little generalisable. I have been climbing actively (more than 3 days a week), ...
The existing answers are very good, but I have some tips that were not emphasized enough: Train with friends. You need to be very mature to be able to visualize and correct your own problems by c...
Disclaimer: This answer reflects nothing else than my own opinion on this subject, since I've never used water to clean holes nor know anyone that does so. So, first thing I'd like to ask you is:...
Shouldn't be less efficient at all - or at least, approximately as efficient. Solar panels generate energy utilising the band-gap structure inherent to semiconductor materials. This means that, to...
To simul-rappel, the technique goes as follows: Prepare to rappel as usual, passing the rope through bomber bolts; Tie knots on both ends of the rope; Attach your personal anchoring system (PAS) ...
I'm off this weekend for a three-day big wall with two other friends. I read "Big Walls", by Long and Middendorf, but the book is too old and doesn't really mention strategies for a three-member cr...
What you describe is called creep. According to this technical manual Creep is a material property frequently misunderstood and can be defined as the continued extension of a material when subj...
According to the most comprehensive reference ever written on bowlines, the EBSB bowline (which is a variation of another variation, called the EBDB bowline, together with a sort of Yosemite finish...
As I said in the comments, I believe my findings deserve an answer on their own. These matters are urgent and I'm a little troubled by what I've found. I've sent emails to three major rope manufac...
