Big wall strategies for a three-member team

I'm off this weekend for a three-day big wall with two other friends. I read "Big Walls", by Long and Middendorf, but the book is too old and doesn't really mention strategies for a three-member crew. For a two-member crew, the strategy is quite standard:

1. Climber 1 (C1) climbs pitch, attached to a lead rope (R1) and carrying with him a second rope (R2), which will serve as a zip-line and a haul line;
2. C1 arrives at belay, fixes R1 and sets a hauling system for R2;
3. C2 lowers off the pig (haul bag), which is then hauled by C1 while C2 jugs R1 and cleans the pitch;
4. Repeat for next pitch;

P.S: If the pitch is long and horizontal, a third rope can make things easier: not only it'll be used to lower off the pig, but also to cancel pendula C2 might have to deal with during the cleaning.

Now, when dealing with one more person, things start to get a little weirder, since there are many possible strategies.

A possible one I was thinking about is Method 1:

1. C1 sets off with R1 and R2, same way as before;
2. C1 arrives at the belay, fixes both R1 and R2;
3. C2 helps lower out C3, which will jug the fixed line R2;
4. C3 arrives at belay with C2 still waiting. After arriving, C3 sends a signal to C2 to start lowering off the pigs;
5. C2 lowers off the pigs and starts jugging the fixed line R1 and cleaning the pitch. Meanwhile, C3 and C1 are hauling the pigs;
6. When hauling is done, C2 is probably halfway cleaning, and C1 or C3 can start leading a new pitch. Hopefully C2 will arrive at belay before the leader is halfway through, because most of the gear will be hanging with C2;

P.S: As always, another rope can be carried by C2 to help him clear the pendula and lower off the pigs.

Another one is Method 2:

1. C1 sets off with R1 and R2, same way as before;
2. C1 arrives at the belay, fixes R1 and pulls up R2 and two other ropes, R3 and R4. R2 in this case will be a very thin, 7mm zip-line;
3. C1 fixes R1 and R3 and sets a pulley system for R4;
4. C3 starts jugging R3 and leader starts hauling from R4 at the same time. C2 immediately sets off to clean the pitch;
5. After C3 gets to belay and helps C1 with the hauling, he or C1 can already start leading the next pitch;

P.S: a fifth (!) rope can be carried to avoid pendula, etc.

I hope I was transparent enough in my descriptions.

Now, let's talk about the advantages of each method. Method 1 has the downside of C2 having to wait till C3 got to the belay to lower off the pigs, and only then start cleaning. But C3 is the fastest of the group anyway: he needs only to jug fast and tight. The main advantage of Method 1 is that C3 can help C1, which just leaded a possible A3+ and is thanking Odin for being alive, to haul the pigs. This method also involves a maximum of 3 ropes.

Method 2, on the other hand, can be faster: C2 starts cleaning immediately after C1 fixes R1. C3 can deal with lowering off the pigs and then can sprint up from a fixed line, to help C1 haul a little, and to lead the next pitch. C2 will be cleaning throughout the whole process, so the next leader will have available gear earlier than in Method 1. The problem is that at least 4 ropes must be carried, and that C1 will have to haul at least a little bit on his own.

Do you know another method? Does anyone have any experience with both of these methods and can suggest any improvement/comment?

posted about 7 years ago

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QuantumBrick‭

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