Activity for aaaaargZombies‭

Type	On...	Excerpt	Status	Date
Edit	Post #41688	Initial revision	—	over 4 years ago
Question	—	How to second a "french free" / A0 move? If the leader has had to resort to pulling on a piece of gear to make it through a crux on a pitch how can the second pass this point while also cleaning the piece that was used for aid. Assuming they are not a stronger climber than the leader. quick glossary. "french free" and A0 are the same thing... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: Recommendations for anchoring long rope swings Assuming you can avoid rope abrasion, do swings like this damage climbing ropes? Swing goes straight into a pendulum with no/limited free fall. I can't see it doing any special damage to the rope that wouldn't occur through climbing. I would make regular inspections of the rope and retire/repl... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: What are the pros and cons of ice axe leashes? Short answer: Safety > Convenience. Long answer: For mountaineering I'd suggest using a leash; I'm sure you're aware but if you were to lose it you would have a hard time performing all these tasks: Self arresting a fall on a steep snow slope. Extracting yourself from a crevasse. Rescuing a part... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: Are there wild camping rules in Scotland? This sounds like a great idea. Wild camping is permited under the Land Reform Act. Outdooraccess-scotland have put together a useful summary of how it relates to your access rights. Key points from which are; Does it mean I can camp anywhere? The main places where access rights do not apply a... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: Explanation of aid climbing grades I wont cover what is aid climbing here. Original Aid Rating System: A0: Occasional aid moves often done without aiders (etriers) or climbed on fixed gear; sometimes called “French free”. A1: All placements are solid and easy. A2: Good placements, but sometimes tricky.... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: Are climbing harnesses tested for upside down falls? Are climbing harnesses tested for upside down falls? ... No. Harnesses have forces gradually applied to them of up to 15kN while attached to a dummy; the dummy is oriented in the head-up position and the force is applied as if a person was hanging from the belay loop. Alternatively, the harness belt... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: Carrying crampons safely when not using them Just face the pointy bits towards each other and wrap the webbing around the bundle to keep them together. I then just chuck them in the bottom of my bag if I know I don't need them or in the top if I know I will. You could pad them with a hat, spare socks or what ever if you were worried about other... (more)	—	almost 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Distel Hitch vs Prussik I would suggest that the Klemheist knot is the best option for ascending a rope or providing a safe attachment when moving horizontally along a fixed rope near the top of a crag or crevasse. It will tighten if loaded in either direction. It is less likely to become 'undressed' than a prussik when ... (more)	—	about 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Repairing down stuff? So far I've far avoided needing to make such a repair but most of the repairs I've seen in the wild have either been gaffer tape or a patch of fabric stuck on with seam sealant. Sometimes if its a small hole just pinching it together and covering with seam sealant. Six Moon Designs has a useful gui... (more)	—	about 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: What lower temperature limit should I look for in sleeping bag for the Appalachian Trail? I'm not sure that anyone can give you a specific number that will suit your needs. Its worth bearing in mind that the temperature ratings on sleeping bags are created using a somewhat arbitrary test involving a dummy with sensors read more. The good thing about this test is that it creates an object... (more)	—	about 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: How do I get cam slings replaced? The information you need is on the manufacturers website. We offer servicing for DMM Cams (trigger wires and slings), and Torque Nuts (slings) if they pass a quality inspection. Prior to sending them to us, we ask you to inspect and assess your gear in accordance to the supplied user instructions... (more)	—	about 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: What happens to cams after climbing? If you have been unable to retrieve the cam using the other methods described another climber will almost certainly abseil in or climb up to it and claim it as Crag Swag. (more)	—	about 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Effective way to carry a sleeping mattress with rucksack? I think having it vertically using side compression straps or bungees on the rear of the bag effects movement the least (ie not getting caught on stuff). As Kate Gregory mentions the pads are really light and don't affect the balance of the bag too much so I wouldn't worry about that. foam pads like ... (more)	—	about 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Trekking in the Alps with a toddler - should we stay in refuges or backpack? This isn't really a clear yes/no sort of question, I'm also pretty reticent to tell someone what would be best for their child. Aside from that hopefully someone will provide some information that will make your decision or others thinking of doing the same easier. My first suggestion would be to wo... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Most efficient training before alpine hiking/climbing? As most people have recommended Training for the new alpinism is a very comprehensive sports science book on exactly the subject your interested in. It covers much more than a stackexchange answer could expect to. From said book, Aerobic threshold power output is the single most important measu... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb? 1) Is it possible to belay 2 climbers using the picture-2 ATC I think It would be as possible as belaying one leader using double ropes. You would need to take in slack at different rates, as apposed to give it out and prepare to hold a fall with either rope. (in case it isn't obvious) You woul... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Question	—	How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection? What method would I used to calculate the likely force placed on a piece of protection if I were to fall onto it. Using knowledge of my weight, distance between myself and the gear and the amount of rope between myself and the belay. Scenario, I'm above a small but well placed nut. I'd like to know ... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Why train at less than max intensity? Especially if not training often This will a bit of a more general answer because I don't run 10k but... Peak fitness is something you aim to hit at a certain point in time and is not something that can be maintained for a great period of time. Expecting to perform your best every time will likely lead you to be disappointed. That'... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Shoe sizes for bouldering Feet and fit are very personal and shoes are no substitute for good technique and strength. How should I choose the proper size of my climbing shoes? I think the best thing you could do would be to borrow a smaller pair from a friend next time you go climbing (or rent a pair) and see what works... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Uses for different size locking carabiners Good things about large 'biners. I carry one large 'biner for building belays, I use my rope to equalise my anchors and join them at my harness using clove hitches and a screw gate through the bite of my figure of 8. Being able to fit multiple knots onto a single 'biner saves the need to carry extra... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Which month would be, on probability, the best month to trek on the Isle of Skye, Scotland? tricky, Rain - Scotland is pretty wet but May and June look to be your best bet. Light - Skye gets very long summer days which stretch out the 'golden hour', the summer solstice is in June Midges - apparently the first midges start hatching May-June, unfortunately the best time to go to avoid the... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Urbex question: How to protect myself from asbestos? It might be worth noting that asbestos can contaminate things, ie your clothing. So even if you wear a mask while on site you could still expose yourself, or others after you have left. here's a link to a pdf about PPE for working with asbestos here's the HSE's (uk goverment body for health and sa... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Rock Climbing falling.Turning upside down Having the rope behind your leg massively increases the chance of being turned upside down when falling, this is quite dangerous but is avoidable with care! Perhaps to answer your question more specifically the proper use of normal gear prevents such incidents and a helmet can add protection if t... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Learning to fall when leading: what is good fall technique? I would try to separate the concerns of placing good gear and learning the action of falling safely. Here is an article from UKC covering the falling aspect! In the video they use a sport route at a climbing wall so falls can be taken without worrying about the quality of the protection. The other... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Big Wall Climbing Portaledge Toilet Etiquette? Etiquette varies a great deal according to locality. In the same way that trad/bolting ethics does. Best practice would be to see if your guide book has advice for the area you are climbing in and if not speak to the locals, ie climbing shop, guides office, etc. Yosemite has some rules and advise al... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago