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Activity for Brian Eagen‭

Type On... Excerpt Status Date
Answer A: Leave no Trace: Are campfires unethical?
I think this largely depends on the specific area you are traveling in. My approach is to always minimize campfires in the backcountry as a general rule. That being said, if I am in an abundant backcountry environment, where there is an already well made fire ring, I have no qualms making an occasi...
(more)
over 9 years ago
Answer A: Chaining locking carabiners
The technique I learned through AMGA is to extend your rappel using a full length nylon sling. Girth hitch one end through your hard points, tie an overhand knot halfway through the sling then clip the remaining end back to your belay loop with a carabiner. You can then clip your ATC carabiner thro...
(more)
almost 10 years ago
Answer A: How to rate a walk/hike by length, height gain, etc using analysis of GPS data?
Interesting question... It would be hard to really quantify something like this because it will be different for each person. Sure walking up a steep hill is always challenging, but some people are much better at it (but might struggle with steep downhill walks?). Determining your Pace Index (ho...
(more)
almost 10 years ago
Answer A: Groups: What are proper occasions for a large, shared hole for waste?
I have found that digging a deep group latrine works far better when taking youth and other folks who are hesitant about the whole "pooping in the woods" idea. I make it one of the task as we set up camp, one group cooks, one group sets up tents, one group get water then digs the latrine. I oversee...
(more)
almost 10 years ago
Answer A: What is the best mountaineering quote that you have ever read?
"I wanted to achieve something essential in life, something that is not measured by money or position in society... The mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambitions to achieve. They are my cathedrals, the houses of my religion... In the mountains I attempt to understand my lif...
(more)
almost 10 years ago
Answer A: Winter route grades
In the US ice grades fall into three categories; Water Ice, which is seasonal and often shifting in difficulty; Alpine Ice, which is permenent ice found on glaciers or high altitudes; and Mixed Ice, which is a mix of ice and rock. Water Ice and Alpine Ice are on the same scale -- though alpine ice t...
(more)
about 10 years ago
Answer A: Trekking poles making odd noise
Based on where the pole is striking the ground, the surface hardness, and the extension of the poles you can get some vibrations and noise (I do). My guess is since the poles aren't extended all the way the shaft surfaces (where the extra length is hiding inside the pole) are colliding and causing t...
(more)
about 10 years ago
Answer A: How to overcome the fear of falling in lead climbing
I've found a great way to work through this is doing intentional fall progressions. Since you are climbing mostly indoors this is easy to do frequently. Make sure you have a solid and patient belayer while doing this. Start with leading up to a bolt (4th or higher is best) and take a short lead fa...
(more)
about 10 years ago
Answer A: Can a compass needle become de-magnetized over time?
Yep! If you store your compass near objects that have strong magnets in them (such as your car speakers) it can demagnetize over extended periods of time. There are a few other issues your compass can run into that makes it less reliable as well. Air getting into the compass housing (in excess) ...
(more)
about 10 years ago
Answer A: Why are indoor climbing grades easier?
The biggest difference in indoor climbing is that your routes are mapped out for you. It can be challenging to figure out the proper sequence, but it's much easier if you know where all the holds are right away. Another big factor is the abundance of large(ish) foothold. When setting in a gym (fro...
(more)
about 10 years ago
Answer A: Belay checklist?
I think a climbing checklist is very important, but it's a fairly personal process. Of course in climbing you are part of a partnership and the person on the other end of the rope needs to be safe as well, but you can role-model and set a good standard. There are two ways that I teach pre-climb che...
(more)
about 10 years ago
Answer A: How to repair the broken stitching and seams in my leather boots?
Your best bet for sewing is to use a Speedy Stitcher. The thick gauged thread works really well in boot/shoe repairs and is easy to use. You will be punching holes through the leather which creates potential for water to invade, but the waxy thread helps eliminate this issue. I would finish up wit...
(more)
about 10 years ago
Answer A: Major fall, same for static and dynamic?
A dynamic rope that sustains a fall factor that high should definitely be retired, even if it doesn't show any immediate signs of damage. A dynamic rope is designed to elongate (dynamic elongation of 30-40%) in order to adsorb the shock of such a high-force fall. By doing so it lowers the forces ap...
(more)
about 10 years ago