Activity for Raz Peel‭

Type	On...	Excerpt	Status	Date
Question	—	Compromised Ropes in Retail Stores Reposting this from a Facebook discussion. It's a picture taken from a retail store where they have attached a pin-tag through the rope to prevent theft; a common practice at this location. My gut reaction is to avoid it like the plague, but I have a tendency to treat the rope like it's sacred. Has ... (more)	—	about 6 years ago
Answer	—	A: Origin of the "bell curve" for rock climbing route setting The bell curve in the post you have referenced is simply just a visual representation of some statistics; Namely, the number of climbers the gym serves, that are able to climb at any specific climbing grade. It may look slightly different at each gym, but if you were to add up these numbers yourself... (more)	—	about 6 years ago
Question	—	Double Mariner Mechanical Advantage Petzl have a diagram on their website for what they call a Double Mariner. It's identified on the site as having a 7:1 mechanical advantage, but I can only see it as having a 5:1. Can somebody confirm or explain what I'm missing otherwise? Crevasse rescue no. 3: haul systems for crevasse rescue (more)	—	almost 7 years ago
Answer	—	A: What to do if the second seems stuck and absolutely no communication is possible? All of Ben's comments are great, but they mostly deal with what you could do once you are in this situation. Avoiding the situation all together might be easier than you think though and likely the better option. To do so, you would just need to extend your belay, or simply put - don't belay from th... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: Would tied strips of webbing have similar strength to a climbing rope? If your intending to top-rope with it, or unimaginably lead climb on it, then absolutely not... ever. Polypropylene not only has a super low melting point, but the fibres are a really large diameter, which means they are super susceptible to abrasion, i.e. your rope cutting. It lastly won't stretch ... (more)	—	almost 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Avoiding a "ding-dong" when lead belaying in the gym? The simplest and most straightforward solution would be to connect yourself to a ground anchor. If you decide to do this while belaying a lead climber, you might want to let the rope slide a little when they fall, because you will lose the ability to provide a soft-catch by offsetting your body-weig... (more)	—	almost 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Why do big wall harnesses have two belay loops? It's simply for organization sake. Aid climbing on big-walls involves lots of gear, and you'll very quickly realize how much of a mess your perfectly racked gear will become. With two belay loops you can separate your aid ladders and daisy chains a little, which helps to keep them from wrapping aro... (more)	—	almost 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb? It's possible, even feasible, and I'll explain how to do so further down. I'd like first suggest that in the absence of a guide mode loop on your belay tube, your likely going to be better of using another system like the auto-locking Italian hitch, than using your ATC XP or similar. Read here for m... (more)	—	about 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Belay with a broken arm This is simply a Clove Hitch on the belay loop. It could be quite effective to use instead of a belay plate if you can only use one hand because it doesn't require you to hold either side of the rope - it simply tightens and locks up in the event of a fall. The biner is placed where it is to make it... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Which is better, a single fisherman's knot or a double? This is a great, and well thought out question! I'll try best as I can to answer as somebody that both climbs, guides, and teaches, but I worry that a correct answer doesn't exist, and at best it'll be an informed answer based on what we currently know. I'll elaborate below.. Question: If the ro... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Should I be using Dyneema slings for lead climbing anchors? See: Slings for anchoring and lanyard in rock climbing Different question, but but it contains a lot of the same releveant information for an answer to this one also; basically either one will work well. Short summary: Your rope is designed to absorb the impact of your fall, while a sling is absolu... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Slings for anchoring and lanyard in rock climbing While both materials do have slightly different properties, either one will work in the scenario mentioned. In-fact, any sling with the UIAA stamp of approval will likely have a working strength of 22kn - more force than you will ever be able to generate by falling if being belayed by a rope. The la... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: How much should my toes hurt in climbing shoes? Your climbing shoes shouldn't hurt at all. Andrew Bisharat has a great article to read on the subject: http://eveningsends.com/climbing/climbing-shoes-tight/ In summary, here's what the article says: It's a misconception that shoes have to be uncomfortably tight for good performance. Using shoes ... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Belay checklist? There are definitely some "checklist" mnemonics for new climbers, but no standard set. Even among the ACMG & AMGA, every guide and instructor might use something slightly different, or not use any at all. Here is the one I teach new climbers personally. It's rather simple, but it seems to stick.... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: How should I choose between setting up a Cordelette or an Equalette climbing anchor? I've had to deal with this question a lot teaching anchor building. When people have asked in the past I normally suggest they use the anchor you are most comfortable setting up, as they will both definitely work. That said, if we want to dive deeper into the rabbit hole, it's important to identify ... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Places to Find Rock Climbing Ball Holds Rather than give you shopping advice, you can visit DPM's climbing hold review page, where they list and review more hold manufacturers than you probably knew existed. You could start there if you wanted more options, but I've personally shopped around in the past for holds and I can promise you that... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: Climbing Kilimanjaro for a newbie According to regulations in Tanzania, you can't climb Kilimanjaro without a guide. That means you will 100% be with somebody that understands the nature of acclimatization and has likely been up many many times previously. When you hire a guide, or book a guided trip via a company, they will also t... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Answer	—	A: What do the climbing terms "Redpoint", "Pinkpoint", "Flash" and "Onsight" mean? The two terms specifically refer to the finer aesthetics of Lead Climbing, in which a climber will either create intermediate anchors using gear (referred to as traditional climbing), or will use the bolted anchors on a wall (referred to as sport climbing), and clip the rope to them as he/she ascends... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Question	—	Climbing Webbing with Taped Ends (where & why) I was reading through the AAJ, and I came across a report from April this year when somebody died due to an anchor failure. The webbing was joined with some masking tape at the ends, instead of knotted. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13200106101/Fall-on-Rock-Inadequate-Anchor-on... (more)	—	over 9 years ago