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Posts by Wills‭

112 posts
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Q&A Stove/fuel setup for harsh conditions

We already have topics on fuels here and here which give quite an overview. Also REI gives some info how to choose your stove and fuel properly. Still I would like to know what are the best option...

4 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Are zipper covers crucial?

The answer will depend on the quality of the jacket and therefore somehow also the price. In the high-end range you often find jackets without zipper covers and still they are 100% waterproof (well...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭

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Q&A Reliability of snow bollards

I just discovered there is a way to rapell (e.g. for crevasse rescue) without any equipment building a snow bollard: How is this done in the best possible manner? What do I have to look for in ...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question winter snow safety
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Q&A Why should I carry a snow anchor?

I regularly see online that on expeditions snow anchors are strapped to the side of the backpacks. This is typically an item like the upper on following pic: I never saw this in the Alps by myse...

3 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question gear winter snow safety
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Q&A Shoe sizes for bouldering

Yes, shoe size plays a role which is quite important. But for beginners I would suggest to think more about foot technique than caring about the best possible gear. For climbing shoe sizes I give ...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Headlamp with open flame

I just saw a documentary where they investigated lakes inside of glaciers. They rapelled in big crevasses and even dived in those sometimes huge water reservoirs. The scientist had a regular looki...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What kind of underwear inside union suit in winter?

When you are facing a serious sweating problem, maybe your overall setup is too warm. What layers/jackets do you wear above the one-suite-fleece? I am thinking of a very thin layer which is highly ...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there a technique to snow-shoeing besides "walk on the snow"?

I think it's quite similar to skiing because the reason for kick-and-glide is to save energy. Same for snowshoes; try not to elevate the whole weight of the shoe for every step. Of course in deep s...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A In cold conditions, will you freeze faster wearing wet clothes than not wearing any?

This depends on the actual type of clothing and mostly on the wind speed. The wind evaporates moisture from the body. Since evaporation is a cooling process and absorbs latent heat away from th...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭

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Q&A Quality/robustness of avalanche shovels

At an online shop I found a great deal for an avalanche shovel (14€). It's not a no-name brand, indeed it is a trustworthy German label. Still there are users complaining about the robustness of th...

3 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question safety avalanche
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Q&A Acclimatization strategies

While reading Hermann Buhl's tour book* of the Nanga Parbat expedition in 1953 (yielding to the first ascent on third of July, Buhl did the final ascent solo) I got curious about the height differe...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A For how long afterwards do we benefit from acclimatization?

Consider we are trying to pre-acclimate for an expedition in Himalaya to shorten the actual timespan on site. As an example, I am expecting a benefit if I go in the Alps for several days above 400...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is department store merino wool less effective than branded (i.e. SmartWool) merino wool in staying warm and wicking moisture?

Like being said you could also ask if price scales with quality. That's not true in general as we all know. What hasn't been said is that there are big differences in terms of labor conditions, su...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭

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Q&A Should I be more careful about postholing during winter hikes?

In my opinion the major risk wearing no snowshoes on deep snow (besides the time aspect) is that you step close in front of a stone or other obstacle. You don't have to run, it is just normal that ...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Dropping gear: Where did the hairline/micro fracture urban legend come from?

You will always find climbers saying they want 100% safety for their hobby. That's a bit like the mountaineers trying to go on ski tour or doing alpine tours only if there is literally no avalanche...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭

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Q&A Measuring a dangerous snow slope

If you don't have a compass or other instruments, it is possible to measure the slope with your two (ski) poles solely. Just hold one pole vertically by using gravity and stick it into the snow. H...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the best mountaineering quote that you have ever read?

I came to win, came as I always do, in order to justify who I am and what I have become; now I don't even know what that is. The rot inside me, the cancer of desire, feels unbearable, now it kno...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭

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Q&A Winter bivvying in the Alps: what is a good temperature rating for a sleeping bag

First of all, I will just spread some ideas. I never did a winter bivi by myself. Please don't blindly trust my words. But... because I am interested in the idea and like to do something similar i...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to prevent fingers from freezing?

Some general rules: layer system also for the hands is a good idea but those gardening gloves won't work pretty well better use inner liner gloves (wool or even a softshell glove) and a warm mitt...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭

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Q&A Are mittens warmer than gloves?

This is simply a question of the increased surface area of gloves which will therefore increase temperature (heat flux) exchange. Same reason why foxes have smaller ears as further away they are lo...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is it safe to sleep for more than 16 hrs a day at altitudes above 6000m?

The weather is very harsh, and the mountain does not allow much area to take a walk on a day when you are not going up the mountain. This sounds like two points mixed up. Is it the bad weather wha...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭

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Q&A What is the best mountaineering quote that you have ever read?

The repetition of the really great alpine routes seemed to us much more interesting than discovering obscure little climbs in remote corners. Like ugly girls, many of the ridges and faces which ...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to detect a crevasse on a glacier

If the glacier isn't snowless (aper) you can probe for spaces under the surface which should be noticed by less resistance in the snow/Firn. Still it is preferable to avoid going in regions where o...

posted 9y ago by Wills‭

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Q&A How to walk as a roped party on a glacier?

The answer of @BenediktBauer covers pretty much everything you have to know as a beginner on glaciers. What you also have to know is the proper knot (and that was the second part of your question)....

posted 9y ago by Wills‭

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Q&A How to belay on top of a pitch

When doing a multi-pitch and you reach a belay station (the top of a pitch) you can choose between belaying the lead climber from the body (like you do e.g. indoors where you aren't doing multi-pit...

3 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭