Activity for Qudit‭

Type	On...	Excerpt	Status	Date
Edit	Post #40467	Initial revision	—	about 4 years ago
Answer	—	A: Do sharpies or markers damage soft rock climbing gear? Some manufacturers state that soft goods such as ropes and dogbones can be damaged by markers so it is best practice not to mark them with sharpies or other generic markers. If you do wish to mark them, there are special markers designed for the purpose. For example, see this one by Beal. (more)	—	over 4 years ago
Question	—	Tradeoffs between different stopper knots Because a number of accidents have occurred when a climber was lowered or rappelled off the end of a rope, it is wise to tie a stopper knot in the end(s) of the rope. My question is what stopper knot do you prefer and why? It seems to me that the desirable features of a stopper knot are that it sho... (more)	—	almost 5 years ago
Answer	—	A: What is SPF in sunscreen cream? As other answers have already explained what SPF is, I will focus on an aspect of high SPF sunscreens that has not been discussed here yet. There are two ways sunscreen can work. The first is by passively blocking UV light (e.g. titanium dioxide and zinc oxide based sunscreens. The second type rel... (more)	—	almost 5 years ago
Answer	—	A: Top-rope soloing sensible primary and secondary device combination You seem to have worked out many of the important principles that are needed for a system like this. The most authoritative source that I know of is Petzl's articles on top-rope soloing. The downside is that they naturally only recommend Petzl devices. While some of their ascenders are recommend... (more)	—	almost 5 years ago
Answer	—	A: When did wearing a helmet become the norm for climbing? You should always wear a helmet when climbing outdoors due to the risk of rockfall. The only downside to wearing a helmet is that it is slightly less comfortable than climbing without one, but this is a small price to pay for potentially saving your life or that of your climbing partner. I always w... (more)	—	over 5 years ago
Question	—	Dealing with twists in a rope while belaying Like most climbers in my area, I use a rope bag to avoid having to reflake the rope after every climb. The downside of this is that the rope gradually aquires twists and after enough climbs, the rope can become twisted enough that it occasionally catchs in the belay device while lead belaying. This... (more)	—	over 5 years ago
Answer	—	A: Titanium Carabiner: what is its ideal use case? The important specification is how strong it is and this information seems to be missing. This is included on all climbing rated carabiners for both proper loading (along the long axis) and when it is cross loaded across the gate. You should never use a non-rated carabiner for a critical applicat... (more)	—	almost 6 years ago
Answer	—	A: How to tape torn skin to continue climbing? I have found that the best way to handle calluses ripping off is prevention. Once one rips off, it is often painful to climb on even if you tape it properly. If you do need to tape, wrap tightly with a narrow piece of tape around the finger and make sure the loose ends are on the back of your finge... (more)	—	almost 6 years ago
Answer	—	A: How to fight bugs when hiking? I use a repellent that contains 30% Lemon Eucalypus Oil and have found it to be effective against flying insects. According to testing done by consumer reports, it is also effective against ticks (despite this being an "off label" use). It does not contain DEET, (which can melt certain plastics and... (more)	—	almost 6 years ago
Question	—	Hiking and climbing in smoky areas This Fall, there are a lot of large fires burning in the pacific northwest of the US and the air quality on many trails and mountains is poor as a result. This makes hiking and climbing unpleasant, unhealthy and possibly unsafe. To be clear, I am not asking about areas that are directly threatene... (more)	—	over 6 years ago
Question	—	Assessing potential lead climbing partners for competence and safety I recently started lead climbing in the gym after taking a lead climbing class. So far, I've only led with someone I know from the class who I watched lead belaying a number of times during the class. However, at some point I will want to lead climb with others and will therefore need a way to asse... (more)	—	over 6 years ago
Answer	—	A: What is this knot that is used on ice axe leashes? Since asking the question, I've done some experimentation and discovered a potentially serious problem with this knot. When it is tied from cord, the size of the loop around which the munter is tied (thanks to @requiem for pointing out that it is a munter) is critical. If the loop is too large, it ... (more)	—	about 7 years ago
Question	—	What is this knot that is used on ice axe leashes? I recently purchased a Petzl ice axe and it came with a leash tired to it using a simple knot that allows the length of the leash to be adjusted. I am interested in this knot because I had previously made a Purcell Prusik to leash my ice axe to my harness but I could use this knot to make a harness... (more)	—	about 7 years ago