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Posts by anatolyg‭

34 posts
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Q&A Most efficient training before alpine hiking/climbing?

I am planning a trip to the Alps, where I'll do some mountaineering, mostly on rocks (little or no ice) at altitudes around 4000 m. I expect to do mostly scrambling, with only a few places per day ...

6 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Technique for lead solo climbing with rope

Advanced climbers only Climbing is inherently dangerous. Soloing is even more so. Please learn from experienced people and in person, not from Internet. So this answer mainly describes physical ...

posted 10y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to arrange 2 Prusiks when ascending a rope?

If I want to ascend a rope with minimal equipment, I use 2 Prusiks: one tied to my harness, and the second one for my foot. However, there are two ways to arrange the Prusiks on the rope - the foo...

3 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question self-rescue prusik
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Q&A How to belay on top of a pitch

(Update: I have now realized you were talking about belaying the leader, and not the second climber. I am updating my answer to take this into account.) What does "belay from the body" mean? Acco...

posted 10y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to overcome the fear of falling in lead climbing

As you say, it's only in your head. Here are some things that may work (worked for me with various degrees of success): Just do it more. You say that you climb "almost all indoors" and "have take...

posted 10y ago by anatolyg‭

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Q&A How to prepare for a long rocky alpine route, which is unusual for me?

I would like to prepare for a long route (700 m altitude gain, 12-16 hours, including descent, with alpine start), one like which I have never [successfully] climbed before. It involves many sectio...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Abseiling on one rope: should I attach the prusik to the other one?

We were abseiling into a cave (about 15 metres height) using a rope hanged by its middle from an anchor: _ /o\ | | | | | | | | | | My experience on abseiling is mostly from climbing, where I de...

3 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

Question rappelling prusik
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Q&A What do I do if I lose my belay plate?

If you have an ice axe, you can make a setup similar to the standard "carabiner braking device" - use the ice-axe instead of the additional carabiner. With this setup, you can get away with using ...

posted 9y ago by anatolyg‭

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Q&A Maximum slope angle for boots?

Maximum angle depends on the type of rock and on the type of your boots. There are too many factors to think about, so maybe the question about maximal angle is not useful. Consider the following:...

posted 8y ago by anatolyg‭

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