Activity for anatolyg‭

Type	On...	Excerpt	Status	Date
Edit	Post #41677	Initial revision	—	over 4 years ago
Edit	Post #40955	Initial revision	—	over 4 years ago
Edit	Post #40676	Initial revision	—	over 4 years ago
Edit	Post #40105	Initial revision	—	over 4 years ago
Question	—	How to descend a few exposed scrambling moves with minimal equipment? I plan to visit a summit which involves a few hours of easy scrambling, with a slightly more technical part at the end, which is very short (2-3 m) but exposed. I expect no problems on the way up but it will be scary and/or dangerous on the way down. I would like to use minimal equipment to save wei... (more)	—	about 5 years ago
Question	—	What safety concerns are there about automatic belay machines? I have just tried using an automatic belay machine in an indoor climbing gym. I didn't receive any specific safety training, but it seems to be straightforward. So what safety concerns should I pay attention to? Is there anything I can do by mistake, which could be dangerous for me or anyone around ... (more)	—	over 5 years ago
Question	—	What to do when one point in a climbing anchor breaks? Climbing anchors usually have 2-3 redundant protection points, which distribute weight. So if one point breaks, this will not be a catastrophic failure. However, what should I do in practice if this happens? (this has never happened to me) Hypothetical situation: I (let's call me A) have finished l... (more)	—	almost 6 years ago
Question	—	Which altitude profile and height is optimal for Everesting by hiking? Everesting is an activity where the goal is altitude gain of 8848 m or more by repeatedly going up and down a selected route. This is most often attempted by biking; however, hiking/running is practiced too. The whole process takes 20-30 hours; however, the time seems to be less important than the f... (more)	—	about 6 years ago
Question	—	How to tape torn skin to continue climbing? I have got this annoying issue when bouldering: a sheared callus on the small finger: I would like to tape this and continue climbing (with extra caution). I am not an expert in taping, and any tape I apply always gets crumpled up and quickly tears away. How do I apply tape so it doesn't come off... (more)	—	over 6 years ago
Answer	—	A: Is "Short roping" "Death Roping"? I never understood the reason for this technique, but let me guess. When one of the people is much more experienced than the other, he can judge where there is no risk (99% of the time), and when there is slight risk (let's say 1%). In the risky situations, short rope allows for quick and efficient ... (more)	—	almost 7 years ago
Question	—	How to compactify the long straps on a tent or tarp when not in use? Tents and tarps have these long straps (sketch here), which may be used to tie them to distant trees. When unused, they can look untidy and become tangled. This can happen both when the tent is in use and when it is folded. What is the proper way to deal with these straps when they are unused? (more)	—	about 7 years ago
Question	—	In canyoning, [why] do people skip a backup prusik? I am used to abseiling with a prusik cord, which gives me protection for the case I lose control of the descent speed. However, I have heard that in canyoning, in some situations, using the prusik is considered undesirable. So people descend on ropes with just a braking device, and without a prusik.... (more)	—	over 7 years ago
Question	—	Is hiking alone always faster? Suppose you need to cover a fairly long distance (e.g. 30 km) in a moderately difficult hiking terrain (no climbing), in 1 day. You can either go alone or with someone, or with a group. I think (from experience) that alone is always faster. Is it right, and if yes, why? What are the factors that mak... (more)	—	over 7 years ago
Answer	—	A: What are ways to reduce swinging momentum when climbing? If you can grab your current hold with both hands: do a pull-up, as high as possible. Then release your feet, in any convenient way. While your body starts swinging, reverse the pull-up, so your arms reach fully extended position when your body is roughly vertical. Then try not to lose your grip whil... (more)	—	almost 8 years ago
Question	—	Are there artificial climbing holds that feel like granite? I have experience in climbing limestone and sandstone. These rocks feel rough - you get much traction (especially with sandstone) and can use it to your advantage when climbing. I think the feeling of artificial holds is the same - they are roughened on purpose to match natural rock. However, I hea... (more)	—	almost 8 years ago
Question	—	What can I do about a rock climbing ban? Authorities have recently banned climbing in my favorite site "for safety reasons". This is, in my opinion, unfair, and was done for unknown political reasons. What can I do to hopefully change their minds so that climbers can continue to access the site? Also, what proactive/ preemptive things ca... (more)	—	almost 8 years ago
Question	—	(Why) Should I hold the rope when belaying the second climber with Reverso? When climbing a multi-pitch route, suppose I am belaying the second climber, using Reverso or a similar device. It lets me arrange the rope in such a way that when the climber falls, the rope automatically tightens, and the fall is stopped without the belayer's intervention (see picture). However, ... (more)	—	about 8 years ago
Question	—	How to get drinking water if I am stuck below Matterhorn summit? Suppose I am descending the Matterhorn along the Hörnli ridge, and night falls when I am near the Solvay emergency hut (4003 m; safe bivouac is several hours of descent away). In this case, I believe I should not try descending further, but spend the night there. I'll need drinking water in thi... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Question	—	How to stash firewood without it getting wet? I am planning a party in the wilderness, where there is no firewood. I decided to carry some firewood there, to make it more fun. It's planned for a specific day in the winter (e.g. birthday party), so there are a few months of "preparation", during which I'll visit that place a few times. How can I... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: What do I need to consider when rock climbing at night? Route finding might be a problem: If the approach is not obvious (from what I read about Snake Dike, it isn't), you could waste much time blundering there, looking for cairns and what not. You could miss an important belay point on the route. You could wander off to another (harder) route in the mi... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: How to avoid tangling up the rope when throwing it before rappelling? First of all, don't coil your rope in the "usual" U-shape, like climbers do! (example picture) Or in ASCII art ------- //// o \\\\ |||| |||| |||| |||| |||| |||| \\// \\// This form is good for carrying, but not for tossing. You mention "lap-coiled", so probably you already ... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: Maximum slope angle for boots? Maximum angle depends on the type of rock and on the type of your boots. There are too many factors to think about, so maybe the question about maximal angle is not useful. Consider the following: Is the rock wet or iced? If yes, this may severely limit your walking abilities. Is the rock covered ... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Question	—	Can I use one helmet for both kayaking and skiing? I am doing little kayaking and just a bit more skiing (the seasons for both are very short where I live). Both of these need helmets, but I feel reluctant to buy 2 items, each of which will see little use. So I wonder whether I can buy 1 helmet that will be sufficiently safe (but not necessarily con... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Answer	—	A: What do I do if I lose my belay plate? If you have an ice axe, you can make a setup similar to the standard "carabiner braking device" - use the ice-axe instead of the additional carabiner. With this setup, you can get away with using just one carabiner. Also, (not directly related to the question) it helps if you cannot use your braking... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Question	—	Why does abseiling become easier gradually? When I am abseiling, the rope is initially hard to feed through my braking device - if I take my hands away from the rope, I get stuck in mid-air. However, as I am getting lower, it gradually gets easier, until at some point the rope starts running by itself. Now, if I took my hands away from the ro... (more)	—	over 8 years ago
Question	—	Most efficient training before alpine hiking/climbing? I am planning a trip to the Alps, where I'll do some mountaineering, mostly on rocks (little or no ice) at altitudes around 4000 m. I expect to do mostly scrambling, with only a few places per day where we'll need to climb with protection. In the time left (a few months), I would like to improve my ... (more)	—	over 9 years ago
Question	—	Abseiling on one rope: should I attach the prusik to the other one? We were abseiling into a cave (about 15 metres height) using a rope hanged by its middle from an anchor: /o\ | | | | | | | | | | My experience on abseiling is mostly from climbing, where I descend on both strands. But my friend said that one should do it on one strand (it's understandable becaus... (more)	—	almost 10 years ago
Question	—	How to prepare for a long rocky alpine route, which is unusual for me? I would like to prepare for a long route (700 m altitude gain, 12-16 hours, including descent, with alpine start), one like which I have never [successfully] climbed before. It involves many sections of roped climbing, mixed with longer sections of what should be unroped exposed scrambling. I have do... (more)	—	about 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: How to overcome the fear of falling in lead climbing As you say, it's only in your head. Here are some things that may work (worked for me with various degrees of success): Just do it more. You say that you climb "almost all indoors" and "have taken a few falls" - I sense a contradiction there. Make a rule that for every route you climb, you fall off... (more)	—	about 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: How to belay on top of a pitch (Update: I have now realized you were talking about belaying the leader, and not the second climber. I am updating my answer to take this into account.) What does "belay from the body" mean? According to your remark on the direction of the pool, I guess it means the rope doesn't pass through the an... (more)	—	about 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Ration or consume water? I have a very simple reasoning about it. It's only based on personal experience, so don't regard it as absolute truth. Your body needs a certain amount of water to be comfortable, say, N. Comfort here includes urination (removal of poisons from body) and sweating (removal of heat). If you drink N or... (more)	—	about 10 years ago
Question	—	How to arrange 2 Prusiks when ascending a rope? If I want to ascend a rope with minimal equipment, I use 2 Prusiks: one tied to my harness, and the second one for my foot. However, there are two ways to arrange the Prusiks on the rope - the foot below the chest, and the opposite way. The first arrangement is most intuitive and described and in al... (more)	—	over 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Efficient and reliable method for managing a nut tool while following on a trad climb? You probably want your tool to have a longer extension, more like 100 cm. If this length bothers you, consider using an extendable bungee cord (e.g. 80 cm long, which you can stretch to 100 cm); twist it so it compacts itself when retracted. It might be possible to use a spiral/telephone cord, howev... (more)	—	over 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Technique for lead solo climbing with rope Advanced climbers only Climbing is inherently dangerous. Soloing is even more so. Please learn from experienced people and in person, not from Internet. So this answer mainly describes physical principles, supported by some experience that I have. Here is an excellent tutorial, by a climber more e... (more)	—	over 10 years ago
Question	—	In an abandoned quarry, is it possible to pry loose rocks from walls until stable? I have an abandoned quarry near my house, in which I would like to make a hiking route. Almost all of it is enjoyable hiking and easy scrambling, except one part, which requires climbing (estimated French grade - 4) up about 5 metres, on a wall with mostly unstable holds. So I wonder whether it woul... (more)	—	over 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: Indoor vs. Outdoor sport climbing This is a pretty broad question; I'll try to answer, but this is going to be long. You have already noted many differences between indoor and outdoor climbing. What could you add to this list of safety concerns? Here are some more ideas on safety: You mentioned "pure length of routes"; the ... (more)	—	over 10 years ago
Question	—	How to pull one's partner from a crack/crevasse when skiing? We are going to descend some snow-covered glacier on skis while roped-up. If my partner falls into a crack, and I stopped him (i.e. didn't get dragged down there), what should we do next? Assuming he is hanging in space and wants to get out by himself, what should I do to provide a reliable anchor ... (more)	—	over 10 years ago
Answer	—	A: What to do at the top of a sport climb Suppose I get to the top of a sport route ... and I want to ... end up with a top-rope setup. "Top-rope setup" implies that someone else is going to climb the same route after you get down, right? Can anyone lay out all the typical steps...? Hang a locking karabiner (or a pair of non-lo... (more)	—	over 10 years ago