Activity for Felixâ€
| Type | On... | Excerpt | Status | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Edit | Post #40265 | Initial revision | — | over 4 years ago |
| Edit | Post #40246 | Initial revision | — | over 4 years ago |
| Answer | — |
A: Should I do exercises for finger strength as an intermediate, heavy climber? You could try adding in a few bouldering sessions if you're mostly doing roped climbs. I find that bouldering strengthens the fingers much more than roped climbing, simply because it's higher-intensity movement on (generally) worse holds. It's a good way to condition your fingers & get better at... (more) |
— | almost 6 years ago |
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Is pouring boiling water into a plastic Nalgene bad for you? I've heard that pouring boiling water into a Nalgene-style bottle is either completely fine or definitely going to kill you. Which is it? Are there any scientific studies demonstrating exactly what happens when you pour boiling water directly into a Nalgene, and how bad this could be for a person? ... (more) |
— | over 6 years ago |
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A: What is the point of belay glasses? Belay glasses are (in Europe) so common that they are basically now part of the standard gym/crag equipment, just like an autolocking belay device. In some places, it can be rare to see someone without a pair on. The primary benefit is comfort for the belayer: you have a much more relaxed neck posit... (more) |
— | over 6 years ago |
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A: How to counter bindings getting loose on MSR Lightning Ascent snowshoes? Some things you can try to hold the boot in place that work for me: Strap the toe, then the heel. Strap the rest of the foot straps. Then, re-tighten the toe & top straps so they are really tight. It helps to think about pushing your foot back into the heel strap. Really pull on the straps. You... (more) |
— | almost 7 years ago |
| Question | — |
Is this image of a skier skinning up a very steep slope rotated? In another question someone posted a photo of a skier going up an apparently extremely steep slope on skins. This slope looks so steep that skinning would be really difficult (especially on an icy slope without ski crampons), and the mountains in the back seem "off". Is this image rotated or altere... (more) |
— | almost 7 years ago |
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A: Crevasse rescue with knots in the rope In a 3:1 (Z-pulley) haul, the victim's rope is used for hauling directly. As you point out correctly, a surface rescue is impossible if you have knots in the rope, since the rope is under tension and you cannot untie the knots. However, you can also drop a different strand of rope down to the victim... (more) |
— | almost 7 years ago |
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A: Is "Short roping" "Death Roping"? Short roping is an advanced technique, but it is a necessary one to progress quickly and safely in the mountains. As with most techniques, knowing when to apply it just as important (or more) as the technique itself. The safety in short-roping comes from three main ingredients: Coaching the climbe... (more) |
— | almost 7 years ago |
| Question | — |
Do electronics interfere with avalanche beacons? I have been told that electronics can possibly interfere with avalanche beacons (cell phones, radios, etc., but even flashlights). Is there any truth to this? A source would be helpful, ideally from a beacon manufacturer themselves. If this is indeed the case, how large is the impact: would it slow ... (more) |
— | almost 7 years ago |
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A: Are my climbing shoes worth repairing? These shoes are pretty far gone. At the very least you'll need a new toe rand in addition to the resole, which is going to cost you a significant portion of the price of a new shoe. Your shoes may even be too far gone for any repair at all. Treat this as an opportunity: it's unlikely your first pair... (more) |
— | almost 7 years ago |
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A: Is there any evidence that attaching a biner to both seat and leg loops results in a 3-way load? All harness manufacturers instruct users to put carabiners through the belay loop and not the tie-in points. Petzl has it in their manual: Black Diamond's Director of Global Quality Kolin Powick (who does much of their gear testing) has this to say: “You should only ever have a carabin... (more) |
— | about 7 years ago |
| Question | — |
How to painlessly remove gunk left by tape gloves? After using tape gloves for crack climbing, I always have some tape gunk left over on my skin. While it doesn't hurt and goes away a few days of rigorous scrubbing, it doesn't look super great at the office on Monday morning. How can I remove this gunk left on my skin? I'm looking for something tha... (more) |
— | about 7 years ago |
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A: Why are climbing shoes usually a slightly tighter than the usual mountaineering shoes? I'll address the mountaineering viewpoint (as opposed to the other good answers about the climbing viewpoint). Mountaineering usually involves covering a lot of distance over a bunch of different terrains: flat trails, scrambling/climbing, snow/ice, etc. A mountaineering boot thus needs to be able t... (more) |
— | about 8 years ago |
| Question | — |
How does weather affect an altimeter watch? I really love wearing an altimeter watch while in the mountains. I know that it's affected by weather, but unfortunately I don't actually know how it is affected. This usually causes me to ignore the altitude readings entirely when the weather is unstable (and thus altimeter readings are inconsistent... (more) |
— | over 8 years ago |
| Question | — |
What would happen if I use a USA (GMRS/FRS) two-way radio in Europe? This question is the opposite from this one: What would the consequences of using a US two-way radio (GMRS/FRS) in Europe? I know Europe has their own frequency range for two-way radios (PMR), but for the moment let's remove buying new radios from the list. Does anyone else use the same frequencies ... (more) |
— | over 9 years ago |
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A: Belaying two seconds? While belaying two seconds at once using the method ShemSeger pointed out is my favorite, it does take a fair amount of experience so I would not recommend it to someone climbing for the first time with two seconds. If you're just starting out, I recommend you use the Caterpillar technique: You lead... (more) |
— | over 9 years ago |
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A: Site with statistics of mountaineering accidents The American Alpine club publishes this data for North America annually, though it's unlikely to cover all accidents. One of the best visualizations of this data I've found is from Steph Abegg: Mountaineering Accident Statistics and Mount Rainier Accident Statistics. (more) |
— | almost 10 years ago |
| Question | — |
How much does a full/empty jetboil canister weigh? I have a bunch of partially-full Jetboil canisters from various trips, and I'm trying to figure out approximately how much fuel is left in each of them. How much does a full canister weigh (fuel + canister), and how much does it weigh when it's empty (canister only)? (For reference purposes, I thin... (more) |
— | almost 10 years ago |
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A: V-threads (Abalakov): How many holes are too many? Will Gadd's book Ice & Mixed Climbing states that if you mess up the first attempt at a V-thread, start over in clean ice. This includes if your screw holes intersect only partway down the hole, the two holes didn't intersect, or the distance between the holes isn't large enough. Practicing makin... (more) |
— | almost 10 years ago |
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A: What are the rules to grade sport climbing single pitch routes? I would argue you've left off the most subjective of metrics, but the most useful: similarity to other routes in the same area. I don't think there's going to be a single equation to grade a route. You'll have general rules of thumbs that hold true (more holds = easier, more overhang = harder), but ... (more) |
— | almost 10 years ago |
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A: What is the best mountaineering quote that you have ever read? My two favorite John Muir quotes: One day’s exposure to mountains is better than a cartload of books. and I never saw a discontented tree. (more) |
— | about 10 years ago |
| Question | — |
What information to leave with your emergency contact? Coming up with emergency information for a recent trip got me thinking: What information should you leave with your emergency contact? I imagine the answer depends on the length of the trip, remoteness of the area, how much your plans are set in stone, etc... Some things I ended up coming up with: ... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
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A: Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb? This, probably more than any issue in climbing, has generated more discussion, heated debates, and vitriol (especially on the internet) than any other issue in climbing. Both sides (lower vs. rappel) are equally ardent in their belief that their way is the One True Way. Unfortunately, both sides are ... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
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A: An adjustable length knot for 2 lines and a carabiner for easy suspension The clove hitch is probably what you're looking for. You can even tie it directly on the branch/beam/bar without worrying about adding a carabiner. You could also tie it to the carabiner, adjust the length, and clip the carabiner to something else. The clove hitch is one of the most under-utilized c... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
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A: Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing) I alternate between the double fisherman's (which everyone has already talked about) and the flat overhand. Lately I've been leaning towards the flat overhand. The benefit of the flat overhand is that it's much easier to tie, inspect, and (most importantly) untie after it's been loaded. When properl... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
| Question | — |
What are creative uses for retired carabiners? I seem to have accumulated a good number of carabiners that, while probably still safe, I won't climb on anymore. They might be worn, of questionable origin, or just plain made obsolete by an upgrade. What are some creative uses for these carabiners? I already have plenty of shoe and leaver 'biners,... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
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A: How should a climbing rope be stored? Completely personal preference. The only thing to do are keep it out of the sun (check), dry (check... I hope), and away from corrosives and other sharp things (definitely check). I usually store it in the rope bag in whatever shape it was last used. Generally, that's flaked out (make sure to tie th... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
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A: How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb? Petzl does recommend this for the second bolt: Clip the second bolt at waist level; this reduces the amount of rope out and thus helps prevent the climber hitting the ground in case of a fall before making the clip. (Section F, second panel.) I think that's generally good advice for clipp... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
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A: Is a tarp necessary if you have a tent with a rainfly and a footprint? You do not need a tarp in addition to the rainfly of your tent (that's what the rainfly is for). While it's always nicer to pack up a dry tent instead of a wet one, as long as you air dry the tent when you get home you'll have no problems with damaging the rainfly. If you do not dry your tent at hom... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
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A: Replacing rope/cord/tape/slings on protection gear For cams, Black Diamond recommends: With occasional use: slings should be replaced every 5-8 years With frequent use: slings should be replaced 2-5 years. This sounds like a good policy for any other soft good (from tricams to harnesses). As you mentioned, harsher use or any sign of damage can si... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
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A: How to pull one's partner from a crack/crevasse when skiing? First, see my comment above. Get some professional instruction. Seriously. To answer your points directly: Build a snow anchor, then transfer the load to your anchor. Holding your partner's weight for the entire duration of a self rescue would be a bad idea. Building an anchor is independent of wh... (more) |
— | over 10 years ago |
| Question | — |
Do mountains really make their own weather, and if so why? Forecasts for the mountains generally seem to be somewhere between useless and unreliable. Afternoon thunderstorms, clouds that come out of nowhere, unexpected rain showers, etc... Anyone who has spent some time in the hills has a story or three of getting caught by unexpected weather, and we're alwa... (more) |
— | almost 11 years ago |
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A: Roping together on an icy path? Roping up would be a bad idea. A good rule of thumb is that you should only rope up if you can place protection between climbers (i.e. attach the rope to something). Glaciers are a different story, but that's not where you're going. Many accidents have occurred when one rope mate falls and takes all ... (more) |
— | almost 11 years ago |
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A: Planning a Trip with strangers While there's always more uncertainty in climbing with someone you don't directly know, don't discount finding partners online altogether. I've had great experiences (primarily rock climbing) with partners I ended up meeting online, and otherwise I wouldn't have climbed that day. Some things you can... (more) |
— | almost 11 years ago |
| Question | — |
Testing waterproofness of outdoor apparel What would be the best way to test the waterproofness of different outdoor apparel such as: Boots Jackets Pants Gloves etc... I'm interested in both the binary case (e.g., is this boot still waterproof or not?) and the more analog case (e.g., this softshell will keep you dry in a rain storm for a... (more) |
— | almost 11 years ago |
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Hauling a pack during climbing Generally when doing multi-pitch climbs, I prefer to just climb with a light pack. However, sometimes that's just not possible and the pack(s) must be hauled instead. What are some good ways to haul a pack up a pitch? Where does it best fit in around belaying the second? What are good ways to avoid ... (more) |
— | almost 11 years ago |
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A: Can Primaloft One be Layered? Yes, you can always add layers to stay warmer. Exactly how much warmer isn't really possible to figure out, as different jackets put their insulation in different places (e.g., more in the torso/arms/hood). Using multiple layers has the benefit that you can take off only some of your insulation if y... (more) |
— | about 11 years ago |
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A: What Rope to purchase? Short answer: For your first rope, none of these numbers matter. Any 60m dynamic rope around 10mm diameter will be fine. Get the cheapest one of the three, and buy a rope bag to keep it clean. Get some good instruction and enjoy climbing outside! (more) |
— | about 11 years ago |
| Question | — |
Avoiding tangles when leading on double ropes Doing multipitch routes with double ropes is great, but (at least for me) inevitably results in messy tangles, twists, and crosses of the two ropes. What are some strategies to prevent the ropes from tangling? (more) |
— | about 11 years ago |
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A: Micro-Fractures in Climbing Equipments This is sadly a very persistent myth that has been around rock climbing for far too long. Black Diamond says that as long as the gate action is fine and there is no major structural damage, the gear is fine. As a side note, the fact that this group decided their gear was unfit to climb on, yet felt ... (more) |
— | about 11 years ago |
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A: How do you wash your water repellent apparel (DWR)? I use the following video as a guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4N6ZuKTZc Basically: Prep garment: close all main zippers, open pockets, and loosen elastics. Wash sweat/dirt/oils off using a performance washing liquid, using cold or warm water. Regular detergent is okay, rinse twice. Spray ... (more) |
— | about 11 years ago |
| Question | — |
How does cam strength change with the retraction angle? Everyone knows an undercammed piece is bad. Does any data exist on how bad it gets? In other words, how does the strength of a cam placement change with the retraction angle? (more) |
— | about 11 years ago |
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What parks are still open during the 2013 US government shutdown? The US government just shut down, stopping funding for (and thus closing) most National Parks, BLM lands, campgrounds on national lands, etc... What areas are still open? (more) |
— | about 11 years ago |
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A: How do you dry wet socks when camping/backpacking if it's raining and the socks cannot be hung to dry outside Sleeping with the socks on your torso is the most effective method I have found, and it does not require anything you wouldn't already have. For this, you just: Take socks off Put them inside your shirt, under all layers of clothing. They should be touching your skin. Sleep Wake up in the morning w... (more) |
— | about 11 years ago |
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A: How safe is the bowline knot in different situations? In addition to zoul's excellent answer, the Bowline has another drawback in that it can come loose (or even undone) after repeated load/unload cycles (i.e. weighing and unweighing the rope). This means that the bowline is not as good as the figure-8 to use to tie-in a climber, especially for multi-p... (more) |
— | almost 12 years ago |
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A: How to clean rock-climbing shoes? First, prevention is going to give you the best bang for your buck. Make sure you dry your shoes properly between uses by hanging them out, and don't keep them in a bag/trunk/confined space. During your climbing session, it's a good idea to take your shoes off between climbs (at least once in a whi... (more) |
— | almost 12 years ago |
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A: Safe way to mark a carabiner gate? Unfortunately nail polish would probably gunk up the locking mechanism. I wouldn't put nail polish on any moving piece of a carabiner. You can use nail polish to mark your gear so you know that it's yours (and not your partner's). You may be able to find a multi-color scheme that indicates the car... (more) |
— | almost 12 years ago |
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Fixing a Jetboil igniter The electric igniter on my jetboil has been giving me trouble. It's not completely broken, but I'll only see a spark 5 or 10% of the time. This means I don't completely trust my stove, and have to carry a lighter. I've tried moving the spark rod closer/further from the burner, cleaning the igniter... (more) |
— | almost 12 years ago |
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A: How can I improve my footwork while rock-climbing? Good footwork is the foundation to good climbing. Most climbers think their footwork is better than it actually is, and could be better climbers simply by improving their footwork. Here are some drills and tips to improve it: Quiet feet: By far the best drill you can do is called quiet feet. It i... (more) |
— | about 12 years ago |