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If the rivers fast moving, rope up. You prob want to use a figure of eight lasso: tie a single figure of eight in the rope, towards the end you want to build a lasso in tie a re-threaded figure o...
In my opinion the major risk wearing no snowshoes on deep snow (besides the time aspect) is that you step close in front of a stone or other obstacle. You don't have to run, it is just normal that ...
Yes, that book is quite odd being aimed to beginners, so it should at least explicitly give some more information about that. That being said. If you want to do that, here's one way to (there are ...
I don't have my copy of How to Survive in Avalanche Terrain in front of me, but one of the things that stood out to me relating to this is the wide variety of avalanche climates that exists not jus...
Benefits are probably quite limited. It allows you to camp where ground conditions do not suit - e.g. very wet, rough or not level ground, in dense or fragile (that you care about) undergrowth. Lea...
I wouldn't read too much into any avalanche statistic. While there may be plausible reasons behind the difference, the data sizes are just too small to make any reliable comparisons. Avalanches a...
Use fly fishing waders with fly fishing boots. underneath use your regular pants with whatever undergarments you normally wear (thermals, etc). The fishing waders and boots will keep everything dry...
Altitude acclimatization is not just a single change in your body but a long list of different things that are going on. There is a nice chart on p. 326 of House and Johnston, Training for the New ...
Have you considered moleskin? I use it to get my boots just right...
All mountaineering gear comes with proper storage instructions. Most gear is best stored in a dry, cool, dark place. Humidity will rust your screws, crampons and axes. That box will effectively tur...
I'm getting back into leading indoors and going through similar things with the 'head-game' part of climbing. Agree with Brian and the others. Practising indoor falls, and talking to myself are hel...
Being a climber (mostly indoor these days) with a lifetime of eczema on my hands, and some nasty flapper experiences (and a pulley injury), I've done lots of research into this! So lots of mentions...
I would argue you've left off the most subjective of metrics, but the most useful: similarity to other routes in the same area. I don't think there's going to be a single equation to grade a route...
The technique I learned through AMGA is to extend your rappel using a full length nylon sling. Girth hitch one end through your hard points, tie an overhand knot halfway through the sling then cli...
I'd focus less on the falling part and more on the climbing part. Get some miles under your belt by leading climbs that you feel comfortable on. Leading is a separate skill from the purely physica...
I met a guy who left February 14th, the same day as I did, and he used a 40F Katabatic quilt the whole time. He slept with his down coat and gloves on. I didn't meet many people with 0F bags. I to...
Here are some pointers and questions: Gloves: Layers are good. Have spares, as well as a set of mittens. Wool pants: How water resistant are they? The greatest potential for problems would be fro...
I have tested the 1443R multiple times from multiple roles and it has consistently resulted in water seepage through the fabric after having 200 pounds of weight on top of it (shelter + person). Th...
I think your basis for this question is a bit out of skew with the myself more at risk clause. The difference between truly top end Merino Wool and lesser quality wool is the micron (µm) being use...
While it does not account for the difference between Canada and the USA, I'm pretty sure that one reason for the low numbers in Europe is that the latter has a lot of seasonal mountain pastures in ...
I think your going to struggle. Let me explain why: Scotland has a very different climate to the US. Scotland is a northern region warmed by the Gulf Stream. At the same latitude in the Americas t...
This is a very, very common problem, perhaps the most common limiting factor among all climbers. It may be worse for you than for most climbers, but at least you realize it and wish to adress it, s...
I think it was polypropylene, it was that cheap, hard, twisted stuff sold in hardware stores for general utility You may find a larger hardware store sells a wider quality spectrum of plastic-...
Avoid eating sugary foods, the digestion of sugar tends to heat your core quickly, and then just as quickly your core temp goes back down. Eat some cheese right before going to sleep. This does n...
Be aware of the difference between removal of harmful pathogens and removal of chemical contamination. Harmful pathogens include amoeba, bacteria, viruses, and worms, and these are effectively de...
