What are the four climbing knots used by Jim Bridwell?
Long & Gaines Climbing Anchors says:
Jim Bridwell, one of the most experienced climbers in the history of the sport, uses only four knots for any and all climbing situations. Better to learn a few knots well, than a multitude of knots poorly.
It then goes on to describe 6 different knots. Which are the 4 that Bridwell used? Is there really a set of 4 that work in every situation?
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But is there really a set of 4 that work in every situation?
I'm a reasonably experienced climber (I currently lead HVS outdoors, about 6b indoors/sport), I can tie 7 knots (counting 3 variations on the figure eight as one) (from memory anyway). This covers pretty much every situation I've ever encountered. The knots I know are:
- Figure eight (various)
- Clove hitch
- Alpine butterfly
- Flat Overhand knot
- Prusik
- Double fishermans
- Double overhand
With these knots you should be able to cover every situation you need, from hauling to setting up a belay. Here's some of them (clove hitch,figure eight and double overhand(stopper)) in action:
Can anyone spot the mistake in the above photo? I posted this photo on Facebook and a climbing instructor friend pulled me up on it! Said it's safe but could be safer.
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I doubt he only knew 4 knots. Looking at online photos, is difficult, but in this photo
I think I can see a double fisherman's on the cord on the back of his harness, a figure eight on a bight on the blue haul line, a girth hitch on the last pin and possibly a water knot. I have also found pictures of him at an anchor with a bunch of clove hitches, but it is unclear who tied them. Maybe he never used them, but I doubt that.
I would also expect him to know the Prussik, or some other friction knot for hauling and a Munter hitch for belaying, but cannot find them in photos. He probably also knew a square knot (and hence a granny knot) as well as a simple overhand knot for backing up his eight on a bight, because most people know these knots. Finally, even if he used a swami belt, I would be surprised if he couldn't tie a bowline on a coil.
This is still a relatively small number of knots.
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