Communities

Writing
Writing
Codidact Meta
Codidact Meta
The Great Outdoors
The Great Outdoors
Photography & Video
Photography & Video
Scientific Speculation
Scientific Speculation
Cooking
Cooking
Electrical Engineering
Electrical Engineering
Judaism
Judaism
Languages & Linguistics
Languages & Linguistics
Software Development
Software Development
Mathematics
Mathematics
Christianity
Christianity
Code Golf
Code Golf
Music
Music
Physics
Physics
Linux Systems
Linux Systems
Power Users
Power Users
Tabletop RPGs
Tabletop RPGs
Community Proposals
Community Proposals
tag:snake search within a tag
answers:0 unanswered questions
user:xxxx search by author id
score:0.5 posts with 0.5+ score
"snake oil" exact phrase
votes:4 posts with 4+ votes
created:<1w created < 1 week ago
post_type:xxxx type of post
Search help
Notifications
Mark all as read See all your notifications »
Q&A

Which option should you use for a multi-pitch climbing anchor after traverse?

+1
−0

I am going to do a climb that has a long lateral traverse I drew up three options, and Option #2 seems to me to be preferable to the other options. Climbing anchor at traverse Climbing anchor at traverse

What do you think the best option is for this situation? Also, if a roof was added above the anchor, does this change your opinion? I imagine getting pulled into the roof head-first if your second falls wouldn't be very nice.

History
Why does this post require attention from curators or moderators?
You might want to add some details to your flag.
Why should this post be closed?

This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/15835. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.

0 comment threads

3 answers

You are accessing this answer with a direct link, so it's being shown above all other answers regardless of its score. You can return to the normal view.

+1
−0

One issue with a long traverse is that if the second falls, they may be unable to easily get back on the route. This means that there is an increased likelihood that you will need to escape the belay. It is infinitely easier to escape the belay when you are belaying directly off the anchor. This means I would go with something like anchor 1.

One issue with all the anchors is that they look designed for a downward force, yet on a traverse, the force is horizontal. If there is another pitch, especially if there is a roof/overhang, the anchor also needs to handle an upwards force.

History
Why does this post require attention from curators or moderators?
You might want to add some details to your flag.

This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/15850. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.

0 comment threads

+0
−0

What you want to do is use a directional piece, but I would not recommend including this piece in your belay anchor. In option #2 up there you're going to switch from a 4 piece anchor to a 2 piece anchor as soon as the rope is weighted.

Remove that piece, and place a bomber piece below your belay anchor, so that the redirected force is pulling down on your belay anchor when the rope is weighted.

Like so:

enter image description here

That extra quick draw is there to help keep the carabiner on your directional piece in place while you're belaying. Make sure you use a dynamic piece of pro for your directional piece, you don't want it to pop out. If you have enough gear, you may even consider using several pieces and make a second anchor for your directional piece, using at least one piece to counter your directional anchor and keep your master-point in place.

History
Why does this post require attention from curators or moderators?
You might want to add some details to your flag.

This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/15852. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.

0 comment threads

+0
−0

I've yet to see a situation where it'd be harmful belaying your second from a fixed point (Option #1). You won't lose you footing in case s/he falls and since her/his rope is coming from above, there's no huge fall factor.

Also Option #1 is far more simple than Option #2, so less possibilities to screw up.

History
Why does this post require attention from curators or moderators?
You might want to add some details to your flag.

This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/15848. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.

0 comment threads

Sign up to answer this question »