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I have the John Long book on climbing anchors and also a couple of others that describe the subject more briefly (Pesterfield, Traditional Lead Climbing, and Freedom of the Hills). When it comes to...
#2: Attribution notice added
by
System
·
2020-04-18T00:10:02Z (over 4 years ago)
Source: https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/4835 License name: CC BY-SA 3.0 License URL: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
#1: Initial revision
by
Ben Crowell
·
2020-04-18T00:10:02Z (over 4 years ago)
<p>I have the John Long book on climbing anchors and also a couple of others that describe the subject more briefly (Pesterfield, Traditional Lead Climbing, and Freedom of the Hills). When it comes to constructing a redundant anchor, they all seem to describe a process in which you place several nuts and/or cams and then use a cordelette to connect them together and equalize them. However, I came across <a href="http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/cordelettes-for-climbing/">this</a> online:</p> <blockquote> <p>I love to hear experienced climbers say they don't use cordelettes. I've been at it 40 yrs., including 9 yrs guiding, and 200+ fa's, and have never seen the reason to add such a time consuming, bulky item to a rack.</p> </blockquote> <p>Can anyone expand on this? Is the idea to use the climbing rope rather than a cordelette? What would be the steps in the process of building an anchor this way? Pros and cons? I assume you can't use this to build a rappel anchor unless you intend to leave the rope behind...? I can't see, e.g., how you would bail off of a multipitch route this way.</p>