Rock climbing over edge - What can I put under the rope to protect it?
I am working on a very fun problem with an overhung roof that induces serious rope drag (Goat Rock Roof @ Castle Rock if you know it). I am very nervous about training this beta intensive problem given how easy it is to cut a rope on an edge. What techniques are normally used to protect edges? I've tried placing shirts, but they are useless. What I need is a placeable plastic or metal piece that will stay on the edge and allow the rope to smoothly pass over it.'
I need a solution for the dynamic climbing line, not the anchor line. Is there anything that will stay on the rock while a rope goes over it?
Note that this route is top rope only:
This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/9532. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.
3 answers
Top roping over sharp edges is never recommended, but if you insist that's what you want to do then what you want is an edge roller:
You can anchor it to the top bolts and hang it right over the edge using accessory cord so that the ropes slide over the rollers instead of the sharp edge:
The picture does't show it, but you're supposed to use velcro straps or something else as a safety to prevent the rope from jumping the track.
EDIT:
If you're concerned about your edge protector flipping over, they do make Roll modules for moving ropes that have both vertical and horizontal rollers:
There are a lot of different styles of edge protectors and edge rollers, but you can typically find them or order them at rescue supply stores.
A slightly more affordable option is a rope pad:
Same idea as the rollers, but made out of heavy duty material instead of metal, and you run the ropes trough a sleeve.
You asked specifically for climbing with dynamic ropes, but I figured I's show the cheap and easy method for single rope rappels too:
I use a Spirol Rope Protector and I really like it, it's flexible but very durable rubber, and it wraps around your rope.
A couple things I like about are that you can leave it on your rope when it's coiled, and you can make it slide along the rope, which is handy if you need to rappel with it a ways to get down to whatever sharp edge you're going over. It doesn't slide on it's own very easily, but it's got a small hole in it so you can tie a rat tail stopper or something with some small cord just in case. But once you've got it pinned against the rock it doesn't move. Another perk is that it stays with your rope, so if you need to swing or traverse you don't have to worry about your rope coming off of you edge protector.
This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/9542. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.
0 comment threads
Apart from what ShemSeger suggested if you are looking for a make-shift option for now, you can get an inner rubber tube that people use for Cycles. Cut it and run the rope through it at the edge where you see the friction. I have been doing this and seen people in India doing this ever since I have started being outdoors.
This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/9538. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.
0 comment threads
Use a piece of Scrap carpet or throw rug on the rock edge to protect the rope.
0 comment threads
0 comment threads