Tips for leading project climbs
I am fairly new to lead climbing. Yesterday, while I was attempting to lead one of my project routes at the gym, I look a fall while clipping the 3rd clip (in the danger zone). The fall scared me quite a bit because it was so close to the ground. I believe that I was applying good clipping technique, I just wasn't able to anticipate that fall and it caught me off guard.
I believe that these unexpected falls happen on project climbs because I haven't worked out all the moves/holds yet. Is there a good method apply when leading project climbs so that I avoid similar mishaps?
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I look a fall while clipping the 3rd clip (in the danger zone).
There is no reason that a climber should be at risk of a ground fall while making the 3rd clip. Even the second clip should be safe in a gym (and ideally outdoors). Something seems off and you should ask either a staff member or a more experienced climber about where you should clip. You should mention your experience of almost taking a ground fall.
If you are concerned about a ground/ledge fall, it is generally better to clip with the bolt near your waist than far above your head. If you pull out 6 feet of slack to clip a bolt that is 3 feet above your waist, at the end of your fall you will be 3 feet closer to the ground (ignoring rope stretch) then if you climbed the extra 3 feet and clipped the bolt right at your waist. Obviously the clipping stance and difficulty of the extra moves need to be taken into consideration.
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the only issue I can see with what you did above was your proximity to the ground when you fell. It might be worth investing in a "Clip stick", something like this:
From Rock and Run website
The idea is that you can pre clip the first few clips thus saving you from the above issues in the danger zone but will allow you to lead the rest. These are particuarly helpful when leading sport climbs outdoors.
The issue with top roping climbs before leading them is there is the danger that you don't get used to leading diffidult climbs and this may stunt your progress.
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What I would suggest is that you practice leading routes that you have done without leading many times.
As you have found out, taking the sharp end of the rope adds an extra amount of difficulty, both mentally and physically.
I would do the route over and over again until you know all of the moves and are confident in your ability to climb it without falling.
Then I would reattempt leading it.
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