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Q&A What is this knot that is used on ice axe leashes?

I recently purchased a Petzl ice axe and it came with a leash tired to it using a simple knot that allows the length of the leash to be adjusted. I am interested in this knot because I had previo...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Qudit‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

#2: Attribution notice added by user avatar System‭ · 2020-04-17T21:02:03Z (over 4 years ago)
Source: https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/16028
License name: CC BY-SA 3.0
License URL: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
#1: Initial revision by user avatar Qudit‭ · 2020-04-17T21:02:03Z (over 4 years ago)
<p>I recently purchased a Petzl ice axe and it came with a leash tired to it using a simple knot that allows the length of the leash to be adjusted. </p>

<p>I am interested in this knot because I had previously made a Purcell Prusik to leash my ice axe to my harness but I could use this knot to make a harness leash that would allow the same amount of adjustability, be more compact and use much less cord.  I would like to know if it has a name and if there is a reason to prefer a Purcell Prusik for leasing my axe to my harness.</p>

<p>In particular, I would like to know if it is strong enough to withstand the shock loading that would occur in the case of a fall after sinking the shaft of the axe into the snow.  The knot would need to still be reliable even when the cord is icy.  If you know of any references that would also be interesting. </p>

<p>Here is the knot and how it is tied.  Note that my question is about a harness leash that I would make using some accessory cord.  I'm only using the wrist leash to illustrate the knot.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/y16AD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/y16AD.jpg" alt="Step 1"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4IxuT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4IxuT.jpg" alt="Step 2"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJGlK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJGlK.jpg" alt="The finished knot"></a></p>