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The "ceramic" variant is considerably safer than the old hot-element type. They use a positive temperature coefficient (PTC) variable-resistance ceramic element and a fan. If the fan fails, the PTC...
Answer
#4: Post edited
by
Michael
·
2024-05-16T17:59:43Z (7 months ago)
Fix a typo. Move some of the parentheticals to footnotes. Link the referred other answer.
The "ceramic" variant is considerably safer than the old hot-element type. They use a PTC (positive temperature coefficent) variable-resistance ceramic element and a fan. If the fan fails, the PTC behavior means the resistance of the element goes up, so its power use goes down, and you don't have anything at glowing ignition temperatures, ever. With the fan blowing, heat is transferred to the air going through and resistance is lowered, so power goes up to the rated value.They are also compact (as compared to the oil filled radiator suggested in another answer, and also as compared to the old fire-hazard hot bar or hot filament units) which might be of benefit in a camper. Many can also be operated at half-power or full-power, and be thermostat controlled. The oil-filled one will be quieter, however.As usual, be sure to get one that is actually listed by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) (those vary with country, with ETL and UL being examples in the US, TUV for Germany *etcetera*.) That will eliminate the cheapest junk units proudly marked only CE (a self certification that has no useful meaning) by the sellers helpfully letting you be the "importer" from their far-off warehouse to circumvent normal safety testing under the somewhat bizarre rules (that get into politics) global markets have devolved into.Passing NRTL testing tends to eliminate melting cords and switches (except for the idiots that ignore instructions and put cords under carpets.) It may also improve the odds that _the company making it_ is not a constantly changing name (on a factory that is never named) to avoid honoring warranty claims (since if the 5 year warranty is for a _company_ that ceased to exist 4.5 years go, it's hard to collect on.)
- The "ceramic" variant is considerably safer than the old hot-element type. They use a positive temperature coefficient (PTC) variable-resistance ceramic element and a fan. If the fan fails, the PTC behavior means the resistance of the element goes up, so its power use goes down, and you don't have anything at glowing ignition temperatures, ever. With the fan blowing, heat is transferred to the air going through and resistance is lowered, so power goes up to the rated value.
- They are also compact[^art] which might be of benefit in a camper. Many can also be operated at half-power or full-power, and be thermostat controlled. The oil-filled one will be quieter, however.
- As usual, be sure to get one that is actually listed by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL).[^nrtl] That will eliminate the cheapest junk units proudly marked only CE[^ce] by the sellers, helpfully letting you be the "importer" from their far-off warehouse to circumvent normal safety testing under the somewhat bizarre rules global markets have devolved into.
- Passing NRTL testing tends to eliminate melting cords and switches.[^carpet] It may also improve the odds that _the company making it_ is not a constantly changing name (on a factory that is never named) to avoid honoring warranty claims, since a 5 year warranty for a _company_ that ceased to exist 4.5 years ago is hard to collect on.
- [^art]: Compact as compared to the oil filled radiator suggested in [another answer][art], and also as compared to the old fire-hazard hot bar or hot filament units.
- [^nrtl]: NRTLs vary with country, with ETL and UL being examples in the US, TUV for Germany, etcetera.
- [^ce]: CE is a self certification that has no useful meaning.
- [^carpet]: Well, except for the idiots that ignore instructions and put cords under carpets.
- [art]: https://outdoors.codidact.com/posts/74917/74918#answer-74918
#3: Post edited
by
Spamalot
·
2024-05-16T14:43:57Z (7 months ago)
- The "ceramic" variant is considerably safer than the old hot-element type. They use a PTC (positive temperature coefficent) variable-resistance ceramic element and a fan. If the fan fails, the PTC behavior means the resistance of the element goes up, so its power use goes down, and you don't have anything at glowing ignition temperatures, ever. With the fan blowing, heat is transferred to the air going through and resistance is lowered, so power goes up to the rated value.
They are also compact (as compared to the oil filled radiator suggested in another answer, and also as compared to the old fire-hazard hot bar or hot filament units) which might be of benefit in a camper. Many can also be operated at half-power or full-power, and be thermostat controlled.- As usual, be sure to get one that is actually listed by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) (those vary with country, with ETL and UL being examples in the US, TUV for Germany *etcetera*.) That will eliminate the cheapest junk units proudly marked only CE (a self certification that has no useful meaning) by the sellers helpfully letting you be the "importer" from their far-off warehouse to circumvent normal safety testing under the somewhat bizarre rules (that get into politics) global markets have devolved into.
- Passing NRTL testing tends to eliminate melting cords and switches (except for the idiots that ignore instructions and put cords under carpets.) It may also improve the odds that _the company making it_ is not a constantly changing name (on a factory that is never named) to avoid honoring warranty claims (since if the 5 year warranty is for a _company_ that ceased to exist 4.5 years go, it's hard to collect on.)
- The "ceramic" variant is considerably safer than the old hot-element type. They use a PTC (positive temperature coefficent) variable-resistance ceramic element and a fan. If the fan fails, the PTC behavior means the resistance of the element goes up, so its power use goes down, and you don't have anything at glowing ignition temperatures, ever. With the fan blowing, heat is transferred to the air going through and resistance is lowered, so power goes up to the rated value.
- They are also compact (as compared to the oil filled radiator suggested in another answer, and also as compared to the old fire-hazard hot bar or hot filament units) which might be of benefit in a camper. Many can also be operated at half-power or full-power, and be thermostat controlled. The oil-filled one will be quieter, however.
- As usual, be sure to get one that is actually listed by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) (those vary with country, with ETL and UL being examples in the US, TUV for Germany *etcetera*.) That will eliminate the cheapest junk units proudly marked only CE (a self certification that has no useful meaning) by the sellers helpfully letting you be the "importer" from their far-off warehouse to circumvent normal safety testing under the somewhat bizarre rules (that get into politics) global markets have devolved into.
- Passing NRTL testing tends to eliminate melting cords and switches (except for the idiots that ignore instructions and put cords under carpets.) It may also improve the odds that _the company making it_ is not a constantly changing name (on a factory that is never named) to avoid honoring warranty claims (since if the 5 year warranty is for a _company_ that ceased to exist 4.5 years go, it's hard to collect on.)
#2: Post edited
by
Spamalot
·
2024-05-16T14:42:56Z (7 months ago)
- The "ceramic" variant is considerably safer than the old hot-element type. They use a PTC (positive temperature coefficent) variable-resistance ceramic element and a fan. If the fan fails, the PTC behavior means the resistance of the element goes up, so its power use goes down, and you don't have anything at glowing ignition temperatures, ever. With the fan blowing, heat is transferred to the air going through and resistance is lowered, so power goes up to the rated value.
- They are also compact (as compared to the oil filled radiator suggested in another answer, and also as compared to the old fire-hazard hot bar or hot filament units) which might be of benefit in a camper. Many can also be operated at half-power or full-power, and be thermostat controlled.
As usual, be sure to get one that is actually listed by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) (those vary with country, with ETL and UL being examples in the US, TUV for Germany *etcetera*.) That will eliminate the cheapest junk units proudly marked only CE (a self certification that has no useful meaning) by the sellers helpfully letting you be the "importer" from their far-off warehouse to circumvent normal safety testing under the somewhat bizarre rules (that get into politics) global markets have devolved into.
- The "ceramic" variant is considerably safer than the old hot-element type. They use a PTC (positive temperature coefficent) variable-resistance ceramic element and a fan. If the fan fails, the PTC behavior means the resistance of the element goes up, so its power use goes down, and you don't have anything at glowing ignition temperatures, ever. With the fan blowing, heat is transferred to the air going through and resistance is lowered, so power goes up to the rated value.
- They are also compact (as compared to the oil filled radiator suggested in another answer, and also as compared to the old fire-hazard hot bar or hot filament units) which might be of benefit in a camper. Many can also be operated at half-power or full-power, and be thermostat controlled.
- As usual, be sure to get one that is actually listed by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) (those vary with country, with ETL and UL being examples in the US, TUV for Germany *etcetera*.) That will eliminate the cheapest junk units proudly marked only CE (a self certification that has no useful meaning) by the sellers helpfully letting you be the "importer" from their far-off warehouse to circumvent normal safety testing under the somewhat bizarre rules (that get into politics) global markets have devolved into.
- Passing NRTL testing tends to eliminate melting cords and switches (except for the idiots that ignore instructions and put cords under carpets.) It may also improve the odds that _the company making it_ is not a constantly changing name (on a factory that is never named) to avoid honoring warranty claims (since if the 5 year warranty is for a _company_ that ceased to exist 4.5 years go, it's hard to collect on.)
#1: Initial revision
by
Spamalot
·
2024-05-16T14:36:27Z (7 months ago)
The "ceramic" variant is considerably safer than the old hot-element type. They use a PTC (positive temperature coefficent) variable-resistance ceramic element and a fan. If the fan fails, the PTC behavior means the resistance of the element goes up, so its power use goes down, and you don't have anything at glowing ignition temperatures, ever. With the fan blowing, heat is transferred to the air going through and resistance is lowered, so power goes up to the rated value. They are also compact (as compared to the oil filled radiator suggested in another answer, and also as compared to the old fire-hazard hot bar or hot filament units) which might be of benefit in a camper. Many can also be operated at half-power or full-power, and be thermostat controlled. As usual, be sure to get one that is actually listed by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) (those vary with country, with ETL and UL being examples in the US, TUV for Germany *etcetera*.) That will eliminate the cheapest junk units proudly marked only CE (a self certification that has no useful meaning) by the sellers helpfully letting you be the "importer" from their far-off warehouse to circumvent normal safety testing under the somewhat bizarre rules (that get into politics) global markets have devolved into.