Posts by ldgorman
On a multi-pitch route when all climbers have reached the belay point, what is the best way/what considerations need to be made, in order to swap lead? Obviously the leader will need to be tied int...
Your bottle will just contain LPG. The problem you may have is the connector for filling up. This is non standard across countries and so you may require an adapter. adapters: https://www.alibaba...
negative points to consider when clipping way above your head as opposed to clipping around chest height: you have to drag out a load more rope, which will slow you down, wasting energy the rope ...
Imagine the situation. You are somewhere in the montblanc massif crossing a glacier and you come across a pair of climbers. You/ I are well trained in crevasse rescue, but are not a certified guide...
If you put a plastic back over your head, you are going to suffocate. A good bivvy bag should be designed such that suffocation is not an issue. However, breathing into a bivvy bag is a terrible id...
Recently i was forced to take a long nap in a particular set of toilets at the top of a particular peak after missing the last bin down. I had no bivvy gear, but the toilets were heated and i was ...
The off width pitch would mean that a bouldering grade is just not applicable. The difficulty of a multipitch free climb should not be assessed in just the difficulty of the climbing but also in ...
Is there hope for a repair on this bow? Samick Outlander American flat bow.
This has been bugging me for a while. A party is traveling on a glacier and adds braking knots evenly to the length of the rope as seen in this answer. The person leading the rope falls into a crev...
Yes! My friend Wendy was belaying my friend Jake on the classic trad route Cemetery Gates. I think it was the first pitch. He was around 30m into the pitch and was having a hard time. He'd not mo...
Firstly... your picture features a french prusik or autoblock knot. BUT it's a badly tied one. There are 3 parts of the knot: 2 tails plus the length of the wraps. These 3 parts NEED to make an ...
Is there an argument for removing your boots to prevent frostbitten toes. Lets say you are at 4000m in the winter in a snow cave with no sleeping bag and frostbite is probable, but death is unlikel...
I recently read this answer about rope thickness, and it mentions a tragic incident where a rope was severed during a lead fall due to the rope being dragged across rock edge whilst under tension. ...
Could the use of anti-perspirant give benefit in extreme cold climate where sweating can be a significant problem. I've read many articles regarding keeping warm when alpine climbing in the extrem...
I've seen people wear ponchos with a belt around the midriff, it looks cool. Ultimately it's probably not the best garment in high wind. You could try sewing in elastic draw cords.
Commonly when setting SARENE-SA trad anchors on multi pitch routes the only protection available are nuts/wires. Additionally, there is very rarely an option to place a nut to protect against an u...
Is there any method for making the initial stages of an abseil smoother when the anchor in use is at foot level and the ledge drops off abruptly. I have had a big swing before when trying to do thi...
Imagine a multi-pitch climbing situation where a lead climber has just finished belaying the second from a hanging belay position. The rope is coiled over the anchor cord (or clove hitched sharp en...
