Posts by aaaaargZombies
Etiquette varies a great deal according to locality. In the same way that trad/bolting ethics does. Best practice would be to see if your guide book has advice for the area you are climbing in and ...
Having the rope behind your leg massively increases the chance of being turned upside down when falling, this is quite dangerous but is avoidable with care! Perhaps to answer your question more...
Feet and fit are very personal and shoes are no substitute for good technique and strength. How should I choose the proper size of my climbing shoes? I think the best thing you could do would...
The information you need is on the manufacturers website. We offer servicing for DMM Cams (trigger wires and slings), and Torque Nuts (slings) if they pass a quality inspection. Prior to sendin...
If you have been unable to retrieve the cam using the other methods described another climber will almost certainly abseil in or climb up to it and claim it as Crag Swag.
Assuming you can avoid rope abrasion, do swings like this damage climbing ropes? Swing goes straight into a pendulum with no/limited free fall. I can't see it doing any special damage to the...
If the leader has had to resort to pulling on a piece of gear to make it through a crux on a pitch how can the second pass this point while also cleaning the piece that was used for aid. Assuming t...
Short answer: Safety > Convenience. Long answer: For mountaineering I'd suggest using a leash; I'm sure you're aware but if you were to lose it you would have a hard time performing all these...
This sounds like a great idea. Wild camping is permited under the Land Reform Act. Outdooraccess-scotland have put together a useful summary of how it relates to your access rights. Key points f...
I wont cover what is aid climbing here. Original Aid Rating System: A0: Occasional aid moves often done without aiders (etriers) or climbed on fixed gear; sometimes called “French free”. ...
Are climbing harnesses tested for upside down falls? ... No. Harnesses have forces gradually applied to them of up to 15kN while attached to a dummy; the dummy is oriented in the head-up position ...
Just face the pointy bits towards each other and wrap the webbing around the bundle to keep them together. I then just chuck them in the bottom of my bag if I know I don't need them or in the top i...
I would suggest that the Klemheist knot is the best option for ascending a rope or providing a safe attachment when moving horizontally along a fixed rope near the top of a crag or crevasse. It ...
So far I've far avoided needing to make such a repair but most of the repairs I've seen in the wild have either been gaffer tape or a patch of fabric stuck on with seam sealant. Sometimes if its a ...
I'm not sure that anyone can give you a specific number that will suit your needs. Its worth bearing in mind that the temperature ratings on sleeping bags are created using a somewhat arbitrary tes...
I think having it vertically using side compression straps or bungees on the rear of the bag effects movement the least (ie not getting caught on stuff). As Kate Gregory mentions the pads are reall...
This isn't really a clear yes/no sort of question, I'm also pretty reticent to tell someone what would be best for their child. Aside from that hopefully someone will provide some information that ...
As most people have recommended Training for the new alpinism is a very comprehensive sports science book on exactly the subject your interested in. It covers much more than a stackexchange answer ...
1) Is it possible to belay 2 climbers using the picture-2 ATC I think It would be as possible as belaying one leader using double ropes. You would need to take in slack at different rates, as...
What method would I used to calculate the likely force placed on a piece of protection if I were to fall onto it. Using knowledge of my weight, distance between myself and the gear and the amount o...
This will a bit of a more general answer because I don't run 10k but... Peak fitness is something you aim to hit at a certain point in time and is not something that can be maintained for a great ...
Good things about large 'biners. I carry one large 'biner for building belays, I use my rope to equalise my anchors and join them at my harness using clove hitches and a screw gate through the bit...
tricky, Rain - Scotland is pretty wet but May and June look to be your best bet. Light - Skye gets very long summer days which stretch out the 'golden hour', the summer solstice is in June Midge...
It might be worth noting that asbestos can contaminate things, ie your clothing. So even if you wear a mask while on site you could still expose yourself, or others after you have left. here's a ...
I would try to separate the concerns of placing good gear and learning the action of falling safely. Here is an article from UKC covering the falling aspect! In the video they use a sport route a...
