Posts by Felix
Yes, you can always add layers to stay warmer. Exactly how much warmer isn't really possible to figure out, as different jackets put their insulation in different places (e.g., more in the torso/ar...
Some things you can try to hold the boot in place that work for me: Strap the toe, then the heel. Strap the rest of the foot straps. Then, re-tighten the toe & top straps so they are really t...
In a 3:1 (Z-pulley) haul, the victim's rope is used for hauling directly. As you point out correctly, a surface rescue is impossible if you have knots in the rope, since the rope is under tension a...
I have been told that electronics can possibly interfere with avalanche beacons (cell phones, radios, etc., but even flashlights). Is there any truth to this? A source would be helpful, ideally fro...
These shoes are pretty far gone. At the very least you'll need a new toe rand in addition to the resole, which is going to cost you a significant portion of the price of a new shoe. Your shoes may ...
After using tape gloves for crack climbing, I always have some tape gunk left over on my skin. While it doesn't hurt and goes away a few days of rigorous scrubbing, it doesn't look super great at t...
I really love wearing an altimeter watch while in the mountains. I know that it's affected by weather, but unfortunately I don't actually know how it is affected. This usually causes me to ignore t...
While belaying two seconds at once using the method ShemSeger pointed out is my favorite, it does take a fair amount of experience so I would not recommend it to someone climbing for the first time...
I have a bunch of partially-full Jetboil canisters from various trips, and I'm trying to figure out approximately how much fuel is left in each of them. How much does a full canister weigh (fuel +...
Will Gadd's book Ice & Mixed Climbing states that if you mess up the first attempt at a V-thread, start over in clean ice. This includes if your screw holes intersect only partway down the hole...
I would argue you've left off the most subjective of metrics, but the most useful: similarity to other routes in the same area. I don't think there's going to be a single equation to grade a route...
My two favorite John Muir quotes: One day’s exposure to mountains is better than a cartload of books. and I never saw a discontented tree.
The clove hitch is probably what you're looking for. You can even tie it directly on the branch/beam/bar without worrying about adding a carabiner. You could also tie it to the carabiner, adjust th...
There are several factors you should considering when judging the severity of a fall. The most important is the fall factor. That's the distance of the fall (where the climbers started minus wher...
Doing multipitch routes with double ropes is great, but (at least for me) inevitably results in messy tangles, twists, and crosses of the two ropes. What are some strategies to prevent the ropes f...
I use the following video as a guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4N6ZuKTZ_c Basically: Prep garment: close all main zippers, open pockets, and loosen elastics. Wash sweat/dirt/oils off usi...
Everyone knows an undercammed piece is bad. Does any data exist on how bad it gets? In other words, how does the strength of a cam placement change with the retraction angle?
Sleeping with the socks on your torso is the most effective method I have found, and it does not require anything you wouldn't already have. For this, you just: Take socks off Put them inside you...
First, prevention is going to give you the best bang for your buck. Make sure you dry your shoes properly between uses by hanging them out, and don't keep them in a bag/trunk/confined space. Duri...
The electric igniter on my jetboil has been giving me trouble. It's not completely broken, but I'll only see a spark 5 or 10% of the time. This means I don't completely trust my stove, and have t...
Good footwork is the foundation to good climbing. Most climbers think their footwork is better than it actually is, and could be better climbers simply by improving their footwork. Here are some ...
For the most part, it comes down to certifications. Each organization will give you a particular certificate for completing their courses. These will be recognized by different places differently...
Listening to your body is spot on. Let the finger heal completely before climbing again. This is very important, as a split tip is very likely to split in the same spot again. Prevention is very...
My philosophy has always been that if I'm going to trust my life to it, I don't want any doubts in my mind. I'm sure they make decent equipment, and as DavidR pointed out their harnesses are certi...
It sounds like you've tried lacing them tight, loose, and everything in between. Other than different socks, you might try the following when you tie your boots. When lacing the upper portion of ...
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