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Posts by StrongBad‭

146 posts
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Q&A What is wrong with this belay setup?

There is a lot going on there and I am not really sure what the system is, but at a minimum The figure eight on the pink rope is not properly dressed. The locking carabiners are not opposite and ...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A How to split 3-5 people into rope teams for glacier travel?

You are not going to like the answer, but a 5 member team should recruit a 6th person. I think 3 people per rope is ideal. 4 people always seems like too many and 2 people makes stopping a fall rea...

posted 4y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A What knot was used by my mountain guide to tie me in to the middle of a rope?

Final question would be why not just a re-threaded figure 8 as you would use at the end of a rope? Lets start with this. This would be a nightmare to tie as you would have to pull a lot of rop...

posted 4y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A How hard is the East Buttress route on El Capitan

First, the difficulty of a V1 is not consistent everywhere, especially for climbers with limited experience. A V1 crack is a very different animal from a V1 slab. Yosemite climbs and boulder proble...

posted 4y ago by StrongBad‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

I think it is easiest to understand if you think about a small pocket where you can fit a single finger in deeply and securely or jam two fingers in poorly. While it is always nice to distribute th...

posted 4y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A Transition to "Starvation Mode" in Survival Situations

While it looks like it has changed, Outward Bound used to routinely include a 3 day solo without food. If I recall correctly, a poncho tarp shelter was provided and you were located near clean wate...

posted 4y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A What is the term for completing a climbing route uncleanly?

I think the general progression I use is climbed, led, freed, flashed, and on sighted. I might break freed into red point and pink point if the route or area makes if ambiguous. I generally break l...

posted 4y ago by StrongBad‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Hot coffee brewing solutions for deep woods camping

As long as you are okay with grinding your beans at home, why not just make cowboy coffee. Basically you Put your tin cup on the fire/stove and bring the water to a boil Remove the cup from the ...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A What is the use case for non-breathable waterproof pants?

As you are aware waterproof breathable fabrics can "wet out" reducing them to simply waterproof fabrics. That does not make wetted out waterproof breathable the same as waterproof non-breathable fa...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A How should regular Appalachian Trail hikers interpret this weekend's attack?

You should probably interpret the incident as a rare fluke and try and forget about it. Murders and crime have happened on the AT before: Frequency of crime/assault on the Appalachian Trail I have...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Alpinism without short roping?

Short roping is dangerous, but a critical part of guiding. See my answer here: Is "Short roping" "Death Roping"? That said, the premise of your question is wrong. Being somewhat of a hyper awar...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A Winter wear in New York

You will see NYU and Columbia students wearing nothing but shorts, a t-shirt, and sandals on all but the coldest days. Assuming you are talking about NYC, a typical commute probably involves no mor...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A What are the four climbing knots used by Jim Bridwell?

I doubt he only knew 4 knots. Looking at online photos, is difficult, but in this photo I think I can see a double fisherman's on the cord on the back of his harness, a figure eight on a bight o...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A Is there really no way to rescue a climber from the death zone?

The problem with rescuing someone in the death zone is, well, that it is the death zone. Supplemental oxygen helps, but the decreased pressure is also problematic. If you are injured or sick, you a...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A Hot water system as a heater for car camping?

gas heaters are obviously unwise inside a sleeping space (due to exhaust) There are a lot of different types of gas heaters, many of which would be unsafe to use inside a sleeping space. An in...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A Best field remedy for small cockroach in the ear

I would follow the advice of the Mayo Clinic. Remove the object if possible. If the object is clearly visible, pliable and can be grasped easily with tweezers, gently remove it. This is somew...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A What to do when one point in a climbing anchor breaks?

I disagree with the other answer. If you are anchored to 2 "solid" pieces and one fails, you are now in a non-redundant state and your goal should be to resolve that situation as quickly and safely...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A Are there any outdoorsy hikes accessible from the T in the Boston area, preferably (but not necessarily) actually in Boston or Cambridge

At closest, your options are probably Hammond Pond in Newton (right off the green line) or Arnold Arboretum in Forest Hills (right off the orange line). Hammond pond is more of a walk a little down...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A Can I theoritcally climb The Mount Erciyes in the summer?

From what I have read, I would say the part of your plan to Climb to the summit of The Erciyes Alone (3917 MASL) is a no go with your experience and gear. Assuming this route description is ...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Will I be warmer in my sleeping bag inside or outside of my tent, when winter camping?

Assuming you have a men's bag, the -40F rating is probably the limit rating, but it might be the extreme rating. If it is the extreme rating then sleeping in -28F, it does not surprise me that you ...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭

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Q&A What NRR (Noise Reduction Rating) should one look for in hearing muffs/earplugs for indoor shooting?

Despite what the extremely smart and dedicate (and if I say so myself good looking) individuals in the US military say is the maximum safe exposure, more noise reduction is always better to the ext...

posted 5y ago by StrongBad‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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