Posts by Guran
The Basics Tying in, ropework, belaying, commands and common sense transfer quite well from rock climbing. At least from trad. Someone with rock climbing experience could certainly top rope on ice...
Most important: Be prepared! On organized skating tours (at least in sweden) the following is mandatory equipment. An ice probe (to determine ice thickness so you wont go through in the first pl...
I've been to Sarek twice and hiked other parts of the swedish and norwegian mountain range (some "wilder" than sarek) more than a dozen times. Here is my view: Sarek is wild, beautiful, but far fr...
There are some cases where the finer details of what constitutes an "attempt" matters. First, completing a climb as an on-sight (on first attempt, without any prior knowledge) or a flash (on first...
I think a better translation would make the meaning obvious. "Kassa" here means "fund". ie a "kassakåta" is a hut funded by the village, not by an individual or a family.
Full body harnesses are not used because of: Weight (for obvious reasons) Bulk (Getting all gear to your climbing desintation can be a chore. Everything else being equal, a more packable harness...
Abisko is kind of unique in Sweden, with it’s accessible alpine setting. (It’s a long journey no doubt, but not complicated thanks to sleeper trains) The areas of Kebnekaise and Sarek have a simil...
Don't extend your rappel too far If your extended brake device gets stuck above the ledge, you probably extended it too far. This might also lead to problems if you have to pass a knot or otherwis...
I wouldn’t While I could think of a number of ways to tie a string the way you want, a cam buckle strap would be super simple and (more importantly) damage the bark considerably less. Even withou...
Yes If we assume that this is a summer camp setup where experienced (ish) instructors set up and oversee the rapell, sure. A one-armed person would face two major difficulties. Setting up the rap...
This is perfectly fine. Not ideal perhaps, but perfectly fine. One caveat though: Never climb above the anchor when clipped in with a static sling. Especially a knotted sling. And if you do - do n...
It depends... What matters depends on what kind of climbing you plan to do. Length matters if you’re climbing (and/or rappelling) routes longer than 25 meters. In some areas, a 80m rope is essen...
Your current choices are good. For a fixed loop in the middle of a rope, an alpine butterfly is a solid choice. I can think of alternatives, but no really better ones. For a loop at the end of th...
There exist specialized tools which can assist sharpening. However those generally only work well with a specific brand/type of screw, since the angles of the screw's teeth differ. (One example is...
In sweden, where skate touring is a popular winter sport, skaters bring a device called "ispik". (Ice pike). They come in two varieties. Either double pike, that looks like a sturdier version of a ...
Protected species in sweden are listed in English here: Protected Species in Sweden. Since information is subject to change I will not copy the information into this answer. Apart from that, hunt...
I'm sorry to post a "You can't-answer", but the truth about crevasses is that the only two things that can save you are a) being roped up b) pure dumb luck. If you ever end up in a situation where...
Climbing shoes don't wear out from age alone (in any realistic time frame that is). However, the rubber in the soles do age (probably because it "dries" and oxidizes over time) which affects the s...
Yes... You can easily do this experiment yourself. Attach a carabiner to both leg and waist loops. Tie the biner to a rope or use a sling and hang from a branch or anchor. Observe how the biner is...
The theory is that (sport) grades should reflect the technical skill, strength and stamina required to redpoint the route. Therefore the definition of, say a 8a route is that "a climber that consi...
It is more about style than routes. The term "Sport climbing" generally (traditionally) refers to climbing (routes longer than boulder problems) in such a way that the climber only have to focus o...
Don't Given your description and your background: Don't even try it! Hauling any load up a slope is much harder than up a vertical cliff, and to attempt that with an injured person... just don't! ...
For two (percieved or real) reasons, I believe: A greater risk of wounding the animal. (Even a skilled hunter misses from time to time and a hunter with a rifle has a bigger chance of getting off...
I'm not sure how your setup is, but I'd try a Purcell prussik or something similar. Animated example You must test its holding Power on paracord yourself, but on climbing cord it's solid enough.
