Communities

Writing
Writing
Codidact Meta
Codidact Meta
The Great Outdoors
The Great Outdoors
Photography & Video
Photography & Video
Scientific Speculation
Scientific Speculation
Cooking
Cooking
Electrical Engineering
Electrical Engineering
Judaism
Judaism
Languages & Linguistics
Languages & Linguistics
Software Development
Software Development
Mathematics
Mathematics
Christianity
Christianity
Code Golf
Code Golf
Music
Music
Physics
Physics
Linux Systems
Linux Systems
Power Users
Power Users
Tabletop RPGs
Tabletop RPGs
Community Proposals
Community Proposals
tag:snake search within a tag
answers:0 unanswered questions
user:xxxx search by author id
score:0.5 posts with 0.5+ score
"snake oil" exact phrase
votes:4 posts with 4+ votes
created:<1w created < 1 week ago
post_type:xxxx type of post
Search help
Notifications
Mark all as read See all your notifications »
Q&A

What is the effect of changing side and edge bevel on ski edges?

+1
−0

I'm always struggling with how edge bevel and side bevel affect my ski's behavior, and accurately grinding those bevels.

What are the effects of various edge and side bevels on the ski behavior, and how do you accurately set those bevels when tuning the ski?

History
Why does this post require moderator attention?
You might want to add some details to your flag.
Why should this post be closed?

This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/1207. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.

0 comment threads

1 answer

+0
−0

No answers yet, so I'll put in my 2 cents.

A more aggressive edge (3+ degrees) bevel will cut into ice better, improving turns, but making the skis more itchy (squirrel-y?). A less aggressive edge (0-1 degree) won't bite as easily, but wears down slower and is more comfortable to ride for beginners.

The base bevel and side bevel can both be changed, but typically you only sharpen from the sides once everything is set.

There are two ways to apply this angle change. One is by eye, using a file. This method isn't very reliable for a consistent angle, but unless you're skiing really hard you probably will do just fine. You can wrap a little tape around your file to tilt it upwards a hair as a simple guide.

The next method is using a fixed bevel tool or a multi-angle tool. Ski shops use the fixed ones because they are the most reliable and consistent, but they are also more expensive (for reference, see this bevel tool, which costs $20, and you only have one bevel option). These tools typically accept either a diamond stone or regular file.

Don't forget to de-tune the first few inches of your skis when you're done! To "de-tune," you run a file at a perfect tangent to the edge (you are making it slightly dull, taming that beautiful sharp edge you just made) for the first few inches of the ski's edge (beginning around the point where it will actually contact the snow). You do this because a very sharp tip or tail edge can cause your skis to be difficult to control. Imagine catching a sharp edge that far from the controlling force of your foot - not fun.

There are several good websites that provide more detail and specifics, including Tognar Toolworks, which has a detailed write-up. I doubt I could write something better here.

History
Why does this post require moderator attention?
You might want to add some details to your flag.

This post was sourced from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/1211. It is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.

0 comment threads

Sign up to answer this question »