Bouldering beside the freeway
Hello I have a question that I ask myself every morning when I commute to work. I live New England and I take the I-95 south from New Hampshire to Massachusetts every weekday. During my commute I drive across faces of rock besides the highway. I have only climbed outdoors once and I am itching to get outside this spring. (I started climbing a few months ago but it is 99% indoor because winter in New England stinks.)
I've lived in New England my entire life but I have never seen people attempt to climb the rock faces besides the highway. I was wondering, is it legal to climb these rock faces at all? And if it is, why don't many people do it (I haven't seen anyone do it.) Are there just better places to climb at?
Thanks
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This answer is specific to the US interstate highway system The vast majority of this system is closed to pedestrian (and bicycle) traffic. These are dangerous roads to be on; on average 600+ pedestrians die each year on them
While there are many place (namely the state of Oregon) where walking on the Interstates is not illegal, it is in most areas of the US. Nearly every on ramp will have a sign stating the legal requirements for access. For a specific section check for signage at the on ramp just prior to the location in question. If it says pedestrians are prohibited, there is your answer. If it does not, you will need to do more research with local agencies. Self propelled traffic may be allowed, but stopping may be limited to emergency use only.
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It's not illegal in Montana, in fact the road side crags at Stonehill near Rexford Bench are some of the best, and most popular sport climbs in NW Montana (for Canadians at least):
Roadside crags are what sport climbers live for, as long as there's enough room in the ditch to belay safely off of the road, then you're good to go.
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Climbing next to a road is, in general, not a pleasant experience. Any roadside rock face is artificially shaped by the excavation that created it. The rock can be more likely to crumble under you as you climb than naturally exposed rock, and it is likely to be dirty from dust kicked up by passing traffic. You may think that dirt is a silly complaint, but it can greatly reduce the friction between rock and your hands. Passing traffic is distracting, to say the least. And all of this ignores the legal issues involved.
If you live in southern New Hampshire, you are within 45 minutes of fantastic bouldering at Pawtuckaway State Park. The climbing there is well documented on Mountain Project and there is an excellent guidebook. If you have questions, the staff at the closest climbing gym should be familiar with Pawtuckaway.
There is also great bouldering at Rumney and around North Conway, although it is not the dominant style of climbing in those areas.
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I have no special knowledge of this subject but it is my understanding that rock cut by blasting fractures deeply, beyond the part that is removed, and that as a result climbing on such rock is typically not safe as entire blocks are liable to come loose. A bolt is worse than no good if it pulls a boulder down on top of you, and trad pro, especially cams, create outward pressure on cracks and may force apart the fractured blocks even faster.
Some climbing does take place on blasted faces but I believe a lot of work goes into preparation, and it still may be rather chossy so care is advised. Quoting http://www.summitpost.org/riverside-rock-quarry/491337
Because the wall has been subjected to blasting, development for sport climbing has necessitated a substantial amount of cleaning dangerous, loose blocks, and reinforcing some loose holds with glue. Stay off red-tagged routes, as these are in the process of being cleaned, and are not yet safe to climb.
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