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I haven't surfed but have enough experience boating and sailing to have an idea... Try going at around a 45 degree angle or (way) less to a wave as what's happening now is the back being picked up ...
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I haven't surfed but have enough experience boating and sailing to have an idea... Try going at around a 45 degree angle or (way) less to a wave as what's happening now is the back being picked up ...